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Routes in Higher Energy Crag

Blood Whine S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Throttle S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mike's Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Bull T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Twisted Chopper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Greg Hand and Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 698 total, 5/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Open to climbing Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

A very powerful route on the far right side of the cliff.

The crux is getting past the third bolt.

Greg was totally throttle out on the sport drink (Full Throttle) on the redpoint.

Protection

Four bolts and a gray Camalot or red Alien.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
A good climb for the short distance it covers. As well, I did it "belly to the bolts," but a different sequence than was done for the FA. I found it to be perhaps 5.11c and more gymnastic/powerful.
Gear: The bolt below the potential gear placement is only at your knees when you reach the next one, so no gear is needed. Why hold on to crux holds for so long when big jugs and a clip are coming? I placed one to see how it was, but not until I was at the last clip anyway. Felt like a little bit too much effort since the route is adequately bolted for a safe ascent. Nov 16, 2006