Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Ribs

5.4, Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.1 from 137 votes
FA: Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden, 1953
New York > Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - Shockley's
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

An easy face climb, passing many horizontals.

Approach: Use the access trail that heads up just where there Stairmaster reaches the Carriage Trail, a 4-minute walk from the Uberfall. At the cliff, walk left and locate Arch, a prominent rock arch above the East Trapps Connector Trail. Ribs starts at the prominent, hanging arete well below the right side of the arch.

P1: Gain the large arete from the side, then traverse over to the middle of the face on the right. Climb nearly a straight line up to the GT ledge, with one or two overhang moves just before the finish. 5.5, 130'. You can also stop at the bolted rap station at 80'; this is a common toproping spot for beginners and guided groups.

Descent: There are three bolted rap stations that serve this and nearby routes.

Protection

Cams of all sizes in horizontals. Pass one bong and rap chains midway up.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

easy face climbing, relaxed and fun.
[Hide Photo] easy face climbing, relaxed and fun.
Caroline placing a bomber cam during her first trad lead on "Ribs".
[Hide Photo] Caroline placing a bomber cam during her first trad lead on "Ribs".
Dave placing gear on Ribs
[Hide Photo] Dave placing gear on Ribs

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
  5.4
[Hide Comment] This climb goes straight up a rappel highway. Wear a helmet. The ledges above have loose rock and even a soft rope can hurt when it's tossed from 100'. Just ask my wife... Apr 3, 2006
[Hide Comment] There is a VERY LARGE and VERY LOOSE rock about 5 ft below the GT ledge rappel station. Oct 31, 2010
[Hide Comment] Both pitches eat tricams. Feet are all there, you just need to look :) The first ledge you rap onto from the 2nd pitch has a rock (2 ft wide x 1 ft high) just chilling there. VERY LOOSE! Be careful. Apr 30, 2012
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
[Hide Comment] Boring, but it's a decent warm-up, or a stay-warm and busy while you are waiting for Arch. It gives you a good view of Arch as well. In fact as the description says, you can get over to the tree on Arch and keep going up. Or rappel from that tree, which is actually fun as well. Nov 26, 2013
minquatrails
Lancaster PA
  5.4 PG13
[Hide Comment] The top quick links attached to the bolts are showing significant wear. The narrow stainless steel hangers are chewing through the softer quick link metal.

Not a fan of this route. Holds were sandy & pro seemed sketchy. Maybe I went off route? Aug 3, 2014
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
[Hide Comment] The roof directly above the second set of chains (the third pitch of Calasthenic) goes at 5.7 and is a great way to finish up this route, if you're getting bored with 5.4. Aug 19, 2014
[Hide Comment] Pro is not great and this route is a popular rappel. Nov 11, 2016
Adam Mattessich
New York
  5.4
[Hide Comment] My favorite route to let fledgling leaders try the sharp end. It's easy to protect w cams. There are great belay stations. There is an easy rappel. It's not the best on weekends as the rappel stations above get busy. Jun 23, 2018
Adam Mattessich
New York, NY
 
[Hide Comment] My favorite route to let fledgling leaders try the sharp end. It's easy to protect w cams. There are great belay stations. There is an easy rappel. It's not the best on weekends as the rappel stations above get busy. Jul 26, 2018
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
 
[Hide Comment] P1 is one of the best climbs for a new trad leader. Easy climbing, well-protected (though not super abundant, new leaders should place gear at every opportunity), short straight line, and bolted anchors.

As others mentioned it is on a major rappel line (Arch), so be prepared for ropes to come down, and ideally try this when it's less busy. Sep 4, 2018
[Hide Comment] The piton blew yesterday. Be careful about checking for rust on pitons and really try to look in the crack and at the surfaces against the rock. I didn't even whip, I just weighted it and it broke in half. Sep 23, 2018
Wally Toomer
Milford, PA
[Hide Comment] My daughter did Ribs as her first trad lead yesterday. We did 3 pitches to the top. First pitch was a little sketchy for her. Second pitch was amazing and fun. Great day in the March sun at The Gunks!! Mar 10, 2019
Ryan Christopher
From the Northeast
 
[Hide Comment] Don't climb this route on the weekend.

Rap stations above have loose rock and pebbles get tossed all the time.

Good intro climb if you have the place to yourself though! Jun 5, 2019