PRINT: Rock Climb Shock and Awe, Castle Rocks

Shock and Awe

5.10a, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.7 from 122 votes
FA: Dave Bingham, 2003
Idaho > S Idaho > Castle Rocks > Castle Rocks > W Buttress - South

Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP Details

(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…

The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.

(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.

Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.

The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…

Description

This fun diverse route starts on patina edges. The crux hits low with in a maze of small patina holds facing different directions. Continue on with tricky pull-down edging leading to a steep jug finish.

Location

South side of the West Buttress of Castle Rock

Protection

Bolts. Bolt anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Patty Black gettin' started on Shock and Awe

Shock and Awe<br>
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Patty Black nearing the top third of the route. Fun!

Shock and Awe Patty Black nearing the top third of the route. Fun!

Climbers on Shock and Awe.

Garrett on Shock and Awe

Shock and Awe<br>
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Patty Black firin' a lap on one of her favorite routes at the Castle.

Shock and Awe Patty Black firin' a lap on one of her favorite routes at the Castle.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

EB
Winona

classic! Apr 20, 2009

Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT

5.10a

When it is 4 stars, you just do it. Don't leave the area without ticking this one off. A word of warning...don't do it in the heat of the day (as I found out the first time I attempted it). This route is best done in the morning. Jul 12, 2009

ben orton

5.9

One of the best routes in the park hands down. 5.9 the 10 rating is not because of the move difficulty just the mental focus needed. Jun 2, 2013

Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY

One of my fav routes of all time. Mentally challenging more than physically - thin edges for feet and hands on very positive face with spaced out bolts. A must do in the city/castle area. Oct 29, 2013

Dan Mathews

5.10a PG13

I thought the climbing was harder and more run out than it looked from the ground. Because there are a couple of large ledges on the route, there are occasions where it is likely one would hit a big ledge if you were to fall while nearing the next bolt. The bolting is a bit sporty compared to many of the newer routes at Castle Rocks. Aug 28, 2014

Mike Engle
Pocatello, ID

One of the best routes for the grade at Castle or City! Aug 17, 2015

Joshua Benjamin
Nampa, Idaho

5.9+

Great route. It's really common for people to ditch the gear they don't need before the 4th class scramble to the base of the climb. Just know that there are 10 bolts on the route, or else you'll have to skip the last bolt or two like I did! Bring 12 draws or climb in your brown pants. Jun 13, 2016

Past User

Needlessly run out over the obvious ledge-fall. It seems like it's only a matter of time before an injury occurs there. Easy to fix (cough cough ..ahem -FA's!) Please make it perfect! Top shelf climbing otherwise! Oct 16, 2018

greggrylls
Salt Lake City

Agreed on the multiple ledge fall opportunities. No obvious cruxes above them but definitely real 5.9 climbing. Not a good route for new 5.10 leaders. Mar 10, 2021

Brandon Marshal
Victor, ID

Amazing! A tough challenge for the new 5.10 COR leader. Has a bit of everything - bouldery steeps, thin slabs, jug hauls, well-spaced bolts... awesome! If you have an 80M rope, you can belay from the alcove below the belay ledge. It took every inch of our 40, but prevented us from having to go up to the ledge.

Awesome and don't miss it. Nov 29, 2021

Mischa F

Needlessly run after bolt 3- positioning and moves 4 star, protection unfortunately only 1 star, know this before starting up. Definitely needs an rappel anchor at the base of the route for descending safely if one does this with any less then a 80 meter rope. We used the first lead bolt of the route out left as our rappel to the ground. Oct 16, 2023