Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 250 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 2, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is not described in the Bloom book. But then again, I can't find the 3 mystery climbs that are, so maybe he just has this one wrong?
Climb up the corner with the hands-to-fist crack, and the hand-to-fist crack just right of it (#3-3.5 camalot) Reach the roof, protect it (1-1.5" gear) and pull in over it (crux, 5.10) and climb the corner system above to a solid anchor.
The anchor is now an equalized #10 hex (textbook placement I just set in) and a drilled pin on the face. A perfectly good carabiner is up top and should be switched for a rapid link by someone (I was out again).

Location

This route is at the very left end of the 'good rock' at Blue Gramma and just before turning the corner to the NW face. It climbs a wide hands and fist crack up just inches right or a right facing corner and then up and right through a roof to an anchor well above.
Approach via the trail at the base of the rock, perhaps 150 meters left of Dawn of an Age and 100 meters left of a distinct 15-meter-tall free standing pillar.
This might be more quickly approached by walking up the road from the parking to the low point in the cliff and then going up to said low point, where this route lies.

Protection

A standard light rack with 2 each 3-3.5" pieces

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
AKA: "Rt 1" in the Creek Freak Book, #17 on page 50. Oct 23, 2018