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Routes in Blue Gramma Cliff

Blue Gramma T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dawn of an Age T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Event Horizon, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C1
Formerly Aided T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayley's Heyday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left of 5.10 Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moon Goddess Revenge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Orion's Bow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Petrelli Motors T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Price of Evil, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unknown far left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown far left - II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,078 total, 43/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 2, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climb up an initial steep move with a 1" or 1.5" cam to access the flake and slab- climb up easy moves leap-frogging the 1" or 1.5" gear to save it for later if you are shy on gear. Continue up to darker and steeper rock, placing a few larger cams (1-2 each 2"-3.5" cams) in wide spots, again to save your 1" and 1.5" gear. Access a good 'pod' in the flake which provides a great stance from which to launch the assault on the meat of the route- the next 10 meters, which will be primarily lie-backs with surprisingly good feet.

Dump any big gear you have left at the low end of this pod then place a 1" cam and a 1.5" cam above it and go. 2-4 more 1.5" placements will get you to the lower angle climbing. Put in gear where you have the best footholds and run between them. Just as you get too pumped, the lower angle rock arrives with a few good jams and a placement for a 2" cam. Finish on the slabby moves to clip a 3-chain anchor.

I gave this climb 5.11- relative to "Formerly Aided" and "Unnamed" which are also rated 5.11 at that cliff and both substantially harder.

Location

Toward the Right Side of Blue Gramma Cliff, this route is not difficult to find. Locate a light-colored slab with a huge, obtuse, dusty, and un-chalked left-facing flake above it's center (un-named 5.11) and a sweet obtuse finger-crack/flake in dark rock to it's right (Blue Gramma).

Protection

(2-3) 1" cams,
(4-6) 1.5" cams
1 each, 2" 2.5" & 3"
3.5" optional.
The larger pieces and leapfrogging down low make only 1 1" and 3 1.5" cams necessary for a decent lead, but more can be helpful.
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11
Pretty great route. Felt like 11b endurance liebacking with a few restful stances along the way. Gets steep at the top! Also, I mysteriously pulled off a softball sized flake about 2/3's of the way up the route. Even on well traveled routes there can still be objective hazard. Nov 27, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
A directional camalot (C4) I put in and left for a TR got pivoted and walked upward on Sunday. Absent a tool to get a hold of it, it was not able to be removed by us.
If you get it out with a nut tool, congratulations. If you feel generous, please contact me to return it and I would greatly appreciate that. Mar 29, 2016
slim

  5.11-
slim    
  5.11-
time hasn't been too good to this route - it has gotten quite eroded at the lip of the crack. good thumb stacks, but slippery feet.

on a side note, when i was cleaning the gear on the way down, i'm not sure if the flake shifted a little or what, but 8 pieces in a row were absolutely crushed in there. they took a lot of work to remove, and when i removed one of them the whole flake made a loud 'pop' noise.

gear was mostly .5 camalots with a few bigger and a couple smaller. Dec 4, 2012
Brian Alexander
  5.11
Brian Alexander  
  5.11
This was very difficult for me, as are most laybacks at Indian Creek. I used lots of cams from 0.3 to #1 Camalot (especially 0.75), and one #2 Camalot at the top. No need for anything larger, despite what the description says. Apr 21, 2012
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.11
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.11
I thought that this route was harder than Formerly Aided- steeper through the crux without any feet. Gear is great the whole way- plug and go. Nov 19, 2009
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
If you have small hands and small feet you can avoid laybacking on this route, but it's still strenuous. Mar 23, 2009
HARD 5.11- Feel this is more 5.11b/c.
GREAT route. Very easy approach. Break away from the Supercrack Buttress crowds. May 19, 2008
Brian Weinstein
  5.11
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11
Beautiful line in a prime setting. Sep 28, 2007
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.11
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.11
Ahhhh, 5.11-? It's gotta be at least one point higher than that! Have not climbed any 5.11 creek climbs yet but the three 5.11- climbs I have attempted I have done onsite. I fell three times from the top of this route before I could complete it!

Maybe I just haven't done enough creek 11s but this seemed harder than .11- to me. Or, maybe I wasn't stemming enough but that top part was rough lay back moves for me! Apr 3, 2006