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Routes in Higher Energy Crag

Blood Whine S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Throttle S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mike's Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Bull T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Twisted Chopper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand
Page Views: 409 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details
Access Issue: Open to climbing Details

Description

The crux is getting over the roof at the start. Start as for Red Bull, clip a bolt over the roof and make a series of hard moves getting established over the roof. Clip the third bolt and then reach a ledge, place the cams and then fire up the cool arete firing past two more bolts to the anchor.

Protection

Five clips plus a yellow and green Alien will get you to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
The low crux is a single power sequence. Maybe 10+/11-. Not sure. The start also need not be as for Red Bull, you can do the slab left of that lone bolt for some new territory, and it's not too hard or unsafe.
The arete up top has cool moves- look for camouflaged holds instead of getting sucked too far off to the right. Nov 16, 2006

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