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Routes in (3) Catwalk Cliff

Baby fit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Clot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catalyst (aka Child Abuse) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack-A-No-Go T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Crossroads S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cruel Sister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Delicatessen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dire Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Erogenous Zone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Full Court Press S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Greasy Spoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ground Zero T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Last Chance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Michael Jordan Air Trad T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mid-Life Celebration S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Shift T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old And In The Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Patent Leather Pump T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearl, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pet Cemetary S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prometheus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quasar T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Religious Fervor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rising Star T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Satan's Awaiting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sitting Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Frizzel, Tom Egan, Dec 1988
Page Views: 3,277 total, 23/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Mar 31, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

A continuous onslaught of challenging moves lead to a thin crux just before the anchors. Catalyst climbs like a continuous series of intriguing boulder problems broken by ledge rests. As a (sport) classic in its own right, it however feels to me to be a bit close to the ultra-classic Cruel Sister (trad) on the right.

Location

Catwalk cliff (south side of the Crooked River). On the collumn just left of Cruel Sister.

Protection

Bolts.
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.12b
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.12b
April 2015 James King and I went and re-bolted this line. The bolts were 30 years old and were those thin SMC hangars that have had problems elsewhere, and a number of the bolts showed rust. They were probably all pretty safe, but its hard to know until you pull them, and now with big fat half-inchers the climb should be good to go for a lot more years.

Furthermore, Tom Egan and Jeff Frizzel bolted this thing when they didn't really have bolting experience and so most of the bolts were put in rather poor locations if you wanted to hang the draws on lead. In order to be safe, you pretty much needed to hang draws on lower after climbing Cruel Sister, and even then you needed a double draw (or triple draw if you were short) on the 2nd bolt.

I got permission from Tom Egan to move the bolts a little bit into better spots to hang draws on lead. I did not add any bolts, I just made the climb nicer/safer to lead. Most bolts were moved 8-12" down, but a couple were moved more like 18-24" lower. The anchor now also has nice chains added by Alan Collins recently.

Here's what Tom had to say: "I drilled the first bolt on that route by hand,, then immediately went to metolius and bought a bosch power drill,,, it was one of the first routes I ever put up!! You have my 100% backup,support on [replacing and moving the bolts] ,, and I welcome to see this result!" Apr 3, 2015
Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
Child Abuse was a long standing toprope prior to being bolted. It was renamed Catalyst after being bolted.
Like many classics in the lower, originally done before sticky rubber! Mar 1, 2015
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.12b
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.12b
Awesome route. Some of the best arete pinching you'll find anywhere. Oct 22, 2014
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.12
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.12
Also called Child Abuse in the Watt's book.

Having the draws hanging really helps on this one. Mar 10, 2014
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.12
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.12
This thing is awesome!! Beat the crowds in the park and head to the lower gorge for some column slapping and airy compression moves.

The second bolt is just out of reach from the low clipping stance so don't blow it making the move to clip it... the ground seems pretty close there. May 29, 2013
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
this routes doesn't seem to be insanely pumpy. But every time I come down from it, I feel about as exhausted as if I had just wrestled a bear. Apr 3, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Awesome TR after Cruel Sister. The top crux is a heartbreaker after the struggle below. Jun 9, 2011
Vernon Stiefel
  5.12b
Vernon Stiefel  
  5.12b
This bolted basalt column is one of the best in the Lower and Upper Gorge. The technical aspect of the route is similar to "Try To Be Hip" but the difficult moves are slightly more powerful and more numerous.

Even though the route is adjacent to "Cruel Sister" it remains an independent line to the anchors. Jun 11, 2006