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Routes in Queen Crimson Dome

Desert Profit T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Get Off My Sister T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hollowed Ground S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Like My Lump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Manwich Queen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Nerve Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Queen Crimson T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Software Sluts T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Walt's Solo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Walt Shipley & Kevin Fosburg, March 1987
Page Views: 326 total · 2/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 31, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Some routes in J-Tree are undeniable sandbags. Nerve Storm, rated 11c in the '92 guidebook, is one such route. I thought this route was significantly more difficult than Hidden Arch (11d); a similar climb. Begin left of Like My Lump in a very thin crack. Bouldery moves gain a stance where a prominent bulge exists. Very strenuous placements of tiny cams / stoppers protect very difficult moves (crux) over the bulge and into a left slanting steep dihedral where the crack widens to hands. Sustained moves (10+) to the crack's end lead to a steep face (10+ / 11-) and eventually one bolt (somewhat runout to the bolt). Slab climbing past the bolt leads to the top.

Location [Suggest Change]

Nerve Storm is on the left end of Queen Crimson Dome and visible from the trail.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Very thin cams / stoppers - brass to 2" for protection. Small to medium cams are necessary for an anchor.


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