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Lunar Eclipse

5.11a, Sport, Alpine, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 121 votes
FA: Chris Miller & Dan Roth, 1991
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Big Bear City Area > Holcomb Valley… > Pinnacles South > Lost Orbit Rock > Lost Orbit Rock… > Lost Orbit Rock - E F…
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Description

Climb right and then up and left off a ramp and onto a vertical face with patina plates which is climbed for several bolts to a small roof/overlap at the 4th bolt; pull over the bulge, clip the next bolt and make some balance moves getting stood up to clip the sixth and last bolt.

The moves past the last bolt require a high step/reach combo on polished, sloping holds and favor those with a good reach.

* Best done in the shade and when the temperature is cooler for optimum success.

Location

Right of Lost Orbit is this great route which was one of the first on the wall.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Moving past the last bolt on Lunar Eclipse (5.10d), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Moving past the last bolt on Lunar Eclipse (5.10d), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Lost Orbit Rock - East Face (detail) with (l-r) Lost Orbit (5.10c), Lunar Eclipse (5.11a), Love At First Bight (5.8).
[Hide Photo] Lost Orbit Rock - East Face (detail) with (l-r) Lost Orbit (5.10c), Lunar Eclipse (5.11a), Love At First Bight (5.8).
Angelina nearing the crux of Lunar Eclipse.
[Hide Photo] Angelina nearing the crux of Lunar Eclipse.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
[Hide Comment] I'm not sure what was going on in May but there were 6 bolts on that route as of 6/29/08. I climbed it with the one of FA party and the route is perfectly safe.

Don't fear people, string that thing up! Jun 30, 2008
Phil Esra
 
[Hide Comment] Fun! At a medium-flexible 5'6" I found the crux much easier than my 6' I-got-no-hip-joints partner. May 5, 2014
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun and a Holcomb standout if you enjoy delicate slab. Crux (last 2 bolts) is well protected and gym climbers will find it very difficult, if not used to this sort of climbing. Much easier down low with several big rest stances, do it! Oct 12, 2014
Brant Hysell
oakland
 
[Hide Comment] Extremely fun route! Smooth moves down low lead to the high crux. Took a couple super clean falls to figure out the palm down high step. Enjoy! Aug 29, 2016
C Miller
CA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Originally rated 5.10c when first established but holds have broken and others become polished. Sep 1, 2016
Abel Valencia
CA
 
[Hide Comment] I almost snagged the onsight, the last bolt was tough, the slab messed with my head game, first whipper Oct 18, 2017
Ryan Wood
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Great varied climb. One of the better ones in Holcomb. May 8, 2020
Alex C
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] The starting undercling feels/looks like it won't last much longer. Stick clip might be a good idea. Jul 26, 2021
Karson Leonard
Moab, UT
[Hide Comment] The starting undercling is fine and the X and sad face someone drew on the hold are unnecessary. The only way this hold could rip off anytime soon is if someone matches it and pulls as hard as possible, which is totally unnecessary considering how the hold is used to move out left on the route. Jun 2, 2022
Jake Nowicki
[Hide Comment] There are a couple spinning hangars on this route. The hangar just above the bulge and the one above that spins. Jun 5, 2023
Tyler Madani
Los Angeles
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely a solid climb traversed a bit left at the last move and got a high right foot. Jul 22, 2023
Victor Ortiz
Santa Barbara
 
[Hide Comment] Super memorable moves over the slab to the anchors, shout out Chris for starting the send train the other night! Jul 7, 2024