Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chuck Scott, Chris Miller, Loren Scott & Pete Paredes, August 2003
Page Views: 343 total · 2/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 30, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

A short, grainy left-facing corner leads to a ledge below a smooth green face. Clip a high bolt and make a fingery traverse left with technical footwork to a good edge and a break below a small roof. Undercling out right and weave your way along the upper face on sloping ledges.

Enjoyable moves on this varied and technical outing.

Location

Just right of Slacker and 25' left of Nowhere To Go But Down is this climb up a smooth face with a greenish tinge.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchors

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Photos

Making the span on Real Men of Genius (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Making the span on Real Men of Genius (5.10b),…
 1
Susan at the anchors on Real Men of Genius (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Susan at the anchors on Real Men of Genius (5.1…
 1
Slacker (5.10c) on the left and Real Men Of Genius (5.10b) on the right.
Slacker (5.10c) on the left and Real Men Of Gen…
 0
Helen Shull attempting the tricky crux of Real Men of Genius.
Helen Shull attempting the tricky crux of Real…
 0

5 Comments

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susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Good hands and "marginal feet" - that sums it up. If you can read the rock (unlike I did) you'll float this lower section. Jun 30, 2008
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.10b
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.10b
That finger traverse is tricky and harder than the rating suggests. Luckily the bolt is at your waist so it's easy to just "go for it." Totally worth it. May 28, 2016
RyanOndriezek
  5.10c
RyanOndriezek  
  5.10c
Middle of the climb turns into glass. Solid cracks for hands but foot holds disappear entirely. Looks like there's been some chipped flakes, making the crux incredibly difficult. I'd bump this up to a 10c rating. Jul 10, 2017
Cody Kaemmerlen
Encinitas, CA
 
Cody Kaemmerlen   Encinitas, CA
 
They’re sparse, but there are some solid feet though the facey crux that make it super enjoyable. Not instantly evident, but they end up making sense. Aggressive shoes (evolv aggros) helped the footholds come to life. May 20, 2018
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
Not sure if (and how) I missed something, but the only sequence feasible I could find for me was to start with hands on the U shaped obvious edge and then make a very high step up before straining and then some to my full extension to the ledge next to bolt. Any other ways? Jul 24, 2018