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The Joker

5.12c, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 112 votes
FA: Jimmy Symans
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > Pit (aka Le Pet… > (E) The White Wall
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Description

This is an endurance fest- or not. Hard start to balancy moves to steep moves to a rest. Then the crux comes in a sequency move out a crescent shaped hold. Then don't mess up getting to the anchors.

Location

Second route from the right.

Protection

Many bolts to chain anchors. Make sure you don't lower your climber all the way to the ground, just to the ledge, or you may lower them off the rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Joker
[Hide Photo] The Joker
Connors tag-teaming The Joker. After all... Connors do it best.
[Hide Photo] Connors tag-teaming The Joker. After all... Connors do it best.
Tomas Robison sets up for the tricky final crux section of The Joker.
[Hide Photo] Tomas Robison sets up for the tricky final crux section of The Joker.
Even the start to The Joker is pretty darned hard! Tomas Robison leads.
[Hide Photo] Even the start to The Joker is pretty darned hard! Tomas Robison leads.
Start to the joker
[Hide Photo] Start to the joker
Oliver sends the joker
[Hide Photo] Oliver sends the joker
Great day on the Joker!
[Hide Photo] Great day on the Joker!
right before the crux
[Hide Photo] right before the crux
The Joker
[Hide Photo] The Joker
And check out those shades!
[Hide Photo] And check out those shades!
Colin hitting the first jug rail on a fine February day!
[Hide Photo] Colin hitting the first jug rail on a fine February day!
Not bad for a warm up,<br>
Colin Cox crankin
[Hide Photo] Not bad for a warm up, Colin Cox crankin

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

claytown
Boulder, CO
  5.12c/d
[Hide Comment] I recommend sticking the first bolt. The start 'jug' broke off a couple of years ago and you start by deadpointing off of not much to a baseball. If you are under 6' your feet will likely come off when you get the rounded hold.

The crux is up higher and after the crux is balancy and slightly run out, considering you are pretty pumped by this point.

PS. shoulder slings on draw 3 and 4 will help with drag up higher. Oct 6, 2006
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
[Hide Comment] Fantastic crux sequence. There are good rests leading up to the crux bulge. Once you leave the final rest jug before the bulge it is all business without a good rest for the next 2 clips. I don't think I would call this route an endurance-fest however; once through the bulge you can get back over your feet (and off your arms)for the less steep but somewhat heady finish.
I found the start rather tedious with severe tendon-tweaking potential. Definitely a detraction from the route. Be careful and don't try it without first clipping the first bolt. Oct 22, 2006
[Hide Comment] The start sounds the same it was 10 years ago. Those holds broke off a long time ago. I also wouldn't call this route an endurance fest. I've sat on the ledge before the crux. Great climb! Oct 18, 2007
Aimee McRae
Bend
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Definatly not the same as it was 10 years ago- the start jug broke about 3 years ago making the start much more difficult and even more necessary to stick that first bolt. I didn't feel that long draws were needed on the 3rd or 4th bolt for rope drag, but if you're worried about it, it's pretty easy for normal sized people to reach down and unclip the 3rd after clipping the 4th. Nov 14, 2007
Mike
Phoenix
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] A fun route. Maybe next time I will get it clean.

I didn't stick clip the first bolt, but lucked out in that there were fixed draws already up. Jul 25, 2008
John McMullen
El Portal, CA
 
[Hide Comment] It's great to see some nice pics of The Joker ... I was never good at taking pics, ever. Apr 23, 2009
[Hide Comment] The F.A. was by Jimmy Symans - on lead with hooks was his story. Oct 1, 2010
Aaron Townsley
Ten Sleep WY
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Another broken hold. Just off the start, after the left hand sidepull (sharks tooth) There used to be 2 holds side by side just above the first bolt. The left side one is ball shaped (ish) the one just barely lower and right was the same just smaller and shittier. This right side one appears to be gone.

No problem, just go big high and right off the sharks tooth before coming back left. May 24, 2017