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The Joker
5.12c,
Sport, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 112
votes
FA: Jimmy Symans
Arizona
> Northern Arizona
> Flagstaff Area
> Pit (aka Le Pet…
> (E) The White Wall
Access Issue: Nesting Closure until August 31st
Details
Eagles, falcons, hawks, and migratory birds build nests in shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, often returning to the same site year after year. The Forest Service and Northern AZ Climbers Coalition request that climbers avoid certain routes during critical nesting periods (typically March through early August).
In 2024, Nose Rock, Shooting Gallery, Bedrock, Pulse Roof, and "Shock Treatment" route on White Wall are all closed for Mexican Spotted Owl nesting from March 1st until August 31st, unless lifted sooner. Signage will be placed at the crag to indicate the closure area - please do not cross those barriers or use trails passing by any of these walls. Additionally, selected routes "Total Recall," "Fruit Bowl," and "No Joke" will be closed for nesting Peregrine Falcons from April 1st until August 31st, unless lifted sooner.
The USFS will be frequently monitoring the Mexican Spotted Owls and Peregrine Falcons so that they can open areas as soon as possible. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes and walls, instead of the entire crag, and we ask that climbers adhere to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org or the US Forest Service @ 928-526-0866 and ask to speak with a biologist.
Access Issue: 2024 Bird Closure
Details
"Eagles, falcons, hawks, and migratory birds build nests in shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, often returning to the same site year after year. The Forest Service and Northern AZ Climbers Coalition request that climbers avoid certain routes during critical nesting periods (typically March through early August).
In 2024, Nose Rock, Shooting Gallery, Bedrock, Pulse Roof, and "Shock Treatment" route on White Wall are all closed for Mexican Spotted Owl nesting from March 1st until August 31st, unless lifted sooner. Signage will be placed at the crag to indicate the closure area - please do not cross those barriers or use trails passing by any of these walls. Additionally, selected routes "Total Recall," "Fruit Bowl," and "No Joke" will be closed for nesting Peregrine Falcons from April 1st until August 31st, unless lifted sooner.
The USFS will be frequently monitoring the Mexican Spotted Owls and Peregrine Falcons so that they can open areas as soon as possible. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes and walls, instead of the entire crag, and we ask that climbers adhere to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org or the US Forest Service @ 928-526-0866 and ask to speak with a biologist."
Description
This is an endurance fest- or not. Hard start to balancy moves to steep moves to a rest. Then the crux comes in a sequency move out a crescent shaped hold. Then don't mess up getting to the anchors.
Location
Second route from the right.
Protection
Many bolts to chain anchors. Make sure you don't lower your climber all the way to the ground, just to the ledge, or you may lower them off the rope.
[Hide Photo] Connors tag-teaming The Joker. After all... Connors do it best.
[Hide Photo] Tomas Robison sets up for the tricky final crux section of The Joker.
[Hide Photo] Even the start to The Joker is pretty darned hard! Tomas Robison leads.
[Hide Photo] Colin hitting the first jug rail on a fine February day!
[Hide Photo] Not bad for a warm up, Colin Cox crankin
Boulder, CO
The crux is up higher and after the crux is balancy and slightly run out, considering you are pretty pumped by this point.
PS. shoulder slings on draw 3 and 4 will help with drag up higher. Oct 6, 2006
Spokane, WA
I found the start rather tedious with severe tendon-tweaking potential. Definitely a detraction from the route. Be careful and don't try it without first clipping the first bolt. Oct 22, 2006
Bend
Phoenix
I didn't stick clip the first bolt, but lucked out in that there were fixed draws already up. Jul 25, 2008
El Portal, CA
Ten Sleep WY
No problem, just go big high and right off the sharks tooth before coming back left. May 24, 2017