Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jimmy Symans
Page Views: 7,170 total · 46/month
Shared By: Aimee Rose on Mar 30, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

65 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This is an endurance fest- or not. Hard start to balancy moves to steep moves to a rest. Then the crux comes in a sequency move out a crescent shaped hold. Then don't mess up getting to the anchors.


Second route from the right.


Many bolts to chain anchors. Make sure you don't lower your climber all the way to the ground, just to the ledge, or you may lower them off the rope.
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
I recommend sticking the first bolt. The start 'jug' broke off a couple of years ago and you start by deadpointing off of not much to a baseball. If you are under 6' your feet will likely come off when you get the rounded hold.

The crux is up higher and after the crux is balancy and slightly run out, considering you are pretty pumped by this point.

PS. shoulder slings on draw 3 and 4 will help with drag up higher. Oct 6, 2006
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Fantastic crux sequence. There are good rests leading up to the crux bulge. Once you leave the final rest jug before the bulge it is all business without a good rest for the next 2 clips. I don't think I would call this route an endurance-fest however; once through the bulge you can get back over your feet (and off your arms)for the less steep but somewhat heady finish.
I found the start rather tedious with severe tendon-tweaking potential. Definitely a detraction from the route. Be careful and don't try it without first clipping the first bolt. Oct 22, 2006
The start sounds the same it was 10 years ago. Those holds broke off a long time ago. I also wouldn't call this route an endurance fest. I've sat on the ledge before the crux. Great climb! Oct 18, 2007
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
Definatly not the same as it was 10 years ago- the start jug broke about 3 years ago making the start much more difficult and even more necessary to stick that first bolt. I didn't feel that long draws were needed on the 3rd or 4th bolt for rope drag, but if you're worried about it, it's pretty easy for normal sized people to reach down and unclip the 3rd after clipping the 4th. Nov 14, 2007
Mike   Phoenix
A fun route. Maybe next time I will get it clean.

I didn't stick clip the first bolt, but lucked out in that there were fixed draws already up. Jul 25, 2008
John McMullen
El Portal, CA
John McMullen   El Portal, CA
It's great to see some nice pics of The Joker ... I was never good at taking pics, ever. Apr 23, 2009
Colin Cox  
The F.A. was by Jimmy Symans - on lead with hooks was his story. Oct 1, 2010
Aaron Townsley
Scottsdale, Arizona
Aaron Townsley   Scottsdale, Arizona
Another broken hold. Just off the start, after the left hand sidepull (sharks tooth) There used to be 2 holds side by side just above the first bolt. The left side one is ball shaped (ish) the one just barely lower and right was the same just smaller and shittier. This right side one appears to be gone.

No problem, just go big high and right off the sharks tooth before coming back left. May 24, 2017
Where's Walden
Where's Walden  
The draws currently hanging on this climb were hung in late July (best guess). Nov 18, 2018 · Temporary Report