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Routes in The White Wall

Fruit Bowl S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Joker, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mordor S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Hope S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
No Joke S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shock Treatment S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sporte S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Free S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Joker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Recall S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jimmy Symans
Page Views: 6,340 total, 45/month
Shared By: Aimee Rose on Mar 30, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Description

This is an endurance fest- or not. Hard start to balancy moves to steep moves to a rest. Then the crux comes in a sequency move out a crescent shaped hold. Then don't mess up getting to the anchors.

Location

Second route from the right.

Protection

Many bolts to chain anchors. Make sure you don't lower your climber all the way to the ground, just to the ledge, or you may lower them off the rope.
Aaron Townsley
Scottsdale, Arizona
  5.12c
Aaron Townsley   Scottsdale, Arizona
  5.12c
Another broken hold. Just off the start, after the left hand sidepull (sharks tooth) There used to be 2 holds side by side just above the first bolt. The left side one is ball shaped (ish) the one just barely lower and right was the same just smaller and shittier. This right side one appears to be gone.

No problem, just go big high and right off the sharks tooth before coming back left. May 24, 2017
Colin Cox  
 
The F.A. was by Jimmy Symans - on lead with hooks was his story. Oct 1, 2010
John McMullen
El Portal, CA
 
John McMullen   El Portal, CA
 
It's great to see some nice pics of The Joker ... I was never good at taking pics, ever. Apr 23, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
  5.12c
Mike   Phoenix
  5.12c
A fun route. Maybe next time I will get it clean.

I didn't stick clip the first bolt, but lucked out in that there were fixed draws already up. Jul 25, 2008
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
 
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
 
Definatly not the same as it was 10 years ago- the start jug broke about 3 years ago making the start much more difficult and even more necessary to stick that first bolt. I didn't feel that long draws were needed on the 3rd or 4th bolt for rope drag, but if you're worried about it, it's pretty easy for normal sized people to reach down and unclip the 3rd after clipping the 4th. Nov 14, 2007
The start sounds the same it was 10 years ago. Those holds broke off a long time ago. I also wouldn't call this route an endurance fest. I've sat on the ledge before the crux. Great climb! Oct 18, 2007
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Fantastic crux sequence. There are good rests leading up to the crux bulge. Once you leave the final rest jug before the bulge it is all business without a good rest for the next 2 clips. I don't think I would call this route an endurance-fest however; once through the bulge you can get back over your feet (and off your arms)for the less steep but somewhat heady finish.
I found the start rather tedious with severe tendon-tweaking potential. Definitely a detraction from the route. Be careful and don't try it without first clipping the first bolt. Oct 22, 2006
claytown
Boulder, CO
  5.12c/d
claytown   Boulder, CO
  5.12c/d
I recommend sticking the first bolt. The start 'jug' broke off a couple of years ago and you start by deadpointing off of not much to a baseball. If you are under 6' your feet will likely come off when you get the rounded hold.

The crux is up higher and after the crux is balancy and slightly run out, considering you are pretty pumped by this point.

PS. shoulder slings on draw 3 and 4 will help with drag up higher. Oct 6, 2006