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Routes in The White Wall

Fruit Bowl S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Joker, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mordor S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Hope S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
No Joke S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shock Treatment S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sporte S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Free S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Joker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Recall S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,633 total, 40/month
Shared By: Aimee Rose on Mar 30, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Hard and reachy with few or no intermediates. I've heard it's quality though.

Location

First route on the right of the White Wall.

Protection

Lots of bolts to chains.

Photos

A. Ginger
  5.13b
A. Ginger  
  5.13b
A great endurance route with fun moves close to town. Classic. Feb 10, 2017
Brayne Varner
Eureka, Ca
Brayne Varner   Eureka, Ca
Leo Henson FA? Nov 19, 2011
The thing is, you don't have to climb straight up the thin seam to make this go natural. The pocket was drilled just behind a 4 finger 3/4 pad side pull crimp. When you grab the pocket you don't even realize the hold is there because it becomes the lip of the pocket. On further inspection you can see that the pocket is recessed behind this edge. The boulder problem is probably only v5ish if you use the crimp and the route grade is 13cish. I just don't know why it was drilled in the first place. Aug 19, 2010
I've only done two others, and it is between the two in my opinion, and based on the time I spent on it. However, I know my ability to rate at this grade is shaky at best, so I would like to hear what other people who have tried it think. Consider the grade simply a first proposal. Jun 18, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.13b
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.13b
Well, you've done it, I haven't so I'm talkin outta my a$$. How does it compare to the other 5.14s you've done? Jun 18, 2009
I think it does. The route is an endurance 13b with no move harder than v4. Removing the hold adds a v9 to the top, with no good rest. Jun 18, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.13b
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.13b
Generally speaking, I think its extremely unlikely that eliminating a single hold would change the grade by 3 letters. Jun 17, 2009
Consensus on the grade is 13b. However, if you avoid the drilled pocket between the 8th and 9th bolts and climb straight up the thin seam, it does go. I believe it is 14a, but would like to hear feedback if someone else tries it this way. However, just because it has been done without the drilled hold, please do not fill it in, as the route is much more fun with the pocket. Jun 17, 2009
Chris Tatum
Flagstaff, AZ
Chris Tatum   Flagstaff, AZ
All bolts replaced 4-24-09 except one anchor bolt because a lack of tools. Will be revisited. Apr 25, 2009
Trish Houghtaling
Flagstaff, Az
  5.13b
Trish Houghtaling   Flagstaff, Az
  5.13b
Amazing route with a variety of ways to do the upper move where the hold broke- a brilliant endurance route! I would say a solid 13b. Sep 22, 2008
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
 
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
 
After a key undercling broke, most people say solid 13c. Nov 14, 2007