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Routes in Mushroom Boulder

Center El Murray V6 7A
Crap Arete V4 6B
Left El Murray V6 7A
Left Wannabe V1 5
Left of Les V2 5+
Local Flakes V2 5+
Mushroom Roof V8 7B
My Fifteen Minutes V7 7A+
New Chautauqua S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right El Murray V8 7B
Right Wannabe V0 4
That's Entertainment V6 7A
Twisted V3 6A
Woman With a Hueco in Her Head, The V10 7C+
Type: Boulder
FA: Bob Murray
Page Views: 2,942 total, 21/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Mar 30, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Closure reported on Climbing.com, Dec. 31st, 2007 Details
Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

Start from the nice 10 finger horizontal edge that is just out of reach for most folks without the help of a pad or boost. Move up witht eh right into a nice sidepull/undercling and if you can get it a thumb catch. If you are short move up left first to the triangle pinch then into the sidepull. Get into a scummy backstep and cross to the triangle, you may have to take it just as a sidepull first but it is best to get your thumb around. You can also move to this first with your right and match off of another hold out left. Fall out of the cross or match and hit a right gaston, adjust your left hand and get your feet way up onto a sloping 2 finger size edge, gun for the slanting jug just below the lip. If you are short there is a pretty good edge a bit lower. Match up on the jug and top out with ease.

Location

Middle left of the amazing north face of the Mushroom boulder from a high start. Downclimb the north-west arete.

Protection

Crash pad or 3 and spotters. Blowing the move to the jug leads to a hard swing out right and an awkward landing so be prepared.

Photos

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LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
I have to agree with the point-mongering statement of DFrench, note the Martini Roof descriptions. How is it that the hard part of the V10 is the moves at the end of the V6? and not the heinous moves about 3 moves in that have you ironcrossed on sloppy edges and bad pinches. Any info if accurate is better than inaccurate or no info at all.
With all the frustration that Left gave me over the years I can see how someone might think that Center does not warrent 4 stars, though I think it is one of the best problems of its grade I've ever done. Aug 27, 2008
DFrench
Cape Ann
DFrench   Cape Ann
Stars aside, this historic route (along with its two neighbors) deserves a much better description that at least pays tribute to the very man that it is named after. It should acknowledge the fact that the El Murrays were once (yes, they are sadly closed) a true litmus test for aspiring hard-men (and women) who made the pilgrimage to the Tanks.

And not even a picture?!?!

I am certainly no historian, but I believe FA credit ought be given to Bob Murray, who ascended the routes first on toprope, as he did with the also-classic See Spot Run (V6).

Thank you to future users who refrain from point-mongering and letting more informed people do justice to these historic routes with a more lively description. Unfortunately, I am not that person. Jun 17, 2008
Joe Collins  
 
The original poster gave this 2 stars? Ridiculous. This is another contender for best boulder problem on the planet. Nov 22, 2007
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Great Problem, this line begs to be climbed! Beta that worked for me was to skip all the crappy holds and just use the good ones. Start on the 2-handed crimp at 7 ft, right hand up to a right facing pinch, left hand to a left facing sidepull / pinch. Set your right hand on a small gaston and deadpoint to the jug jueco at the top. I was able to keep my left hand on greatly reducing the bad fall potential. Apr 27, 2007