Type: Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)
FA: Mike Head
Page Views: 10,255 total · 46/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Mar 30, 2006
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Joanie Mars, Jim Day

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The standard for V8 according to Sherman and a classic as well. A couple of the slots are supposedly chipped out on this problem but I'm not 100% sure of I belive that, still classic none the less.

Start on the jug at the end of the low flake that goes all the way to the bottom of the boulder, one can start lower but it just turns it into a butt dragging...

Move up with either hand to start to an edge for the left or a tooth for the right. Bury the right heal toe cam to the right of where your hands started on the jug and move either right to the first "chipped" slot then cross to the second or cross off of the tooth left to either "chipped" slot. Move the right out to a good crimp, now for the first crux, releasing the heal toe while fully extended, it is possible to hold the swing but very taxing, better to step out carefully onto the point of the starting jug then up into the roof out to your left. Move up left hand to another seam and backstep the tooth to move up and right to a pretty good hold just below the lip. Step up onto the crimp that you used with your right either with a toe or a heal and catch a bad hold at the lip and bump up to a better hold. There are several ways to work your hands up over the lip but ultimately you want to get onto 2 crimpy pinches about 3 feet over the lip and your foot up onto the good hold just below the lip, from here you can stand up and grab some higher holds and top out.

Location
Starts under the roof on the east side of the boulder of the jug at the end of the obvious flake/rail on the right side of the overhang.

Protection Suggest change

Crash pad

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