Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

On The Road

5.11a, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 3.9 from 51 votes
FA: Chris Grover, Jim Davis, 1980
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (z) Lower Gorge > W Side > (2) Wildfire Wall

Description

The technical crux hits soon after the start with a thin crack through a bulge that is finger size dependent. Larger fingers require face moves while smaller fingers can use the thin crack. Fighting the pump to the finish is the other crux of this classic route. A great climb.

Location

Wildfire Wall

Protection

Gear to 2 1/2 inches including small cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

on the road
[Hide Photo] on the road

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This climb kicked my ass - plain and simple. Bring small (I mean small!) cams for the first crux section exiting the awkward flare. The middle section of rattly fingers, while easier, is no cake walk. The final bit of hands is a welcome relief.
Oct 21, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Less of a battle the second time, but still a battle. C3s (purple to red) are key at the crux. Plus more small cams for the start. After the crux there is a good big offset nut and a good HB #6 brass. Then it steadily goes from #0.5 camalots to #2 camalots. Most mortals will want a good helping - especially the #0.5/#0.75s . There is a solid 20' of sustained rattly fingers and ringlocks without feet. When it finally goes to hands, it gets overhung so its still no walk in the park. Oh yeah! Aug 23, 2011
[Hide Comment] Has anyone else noticed how hollow sounding the right side of the crack is in the thin flared crux bit? A bit alarming but I'd imagine protection placed in that rock has held plenty of falls. Mar 1, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] For a lower gorge 5.11, this thing actually has tons of super solid gear through the whole thing. You can do it perfectly safely with two blue Mastercams/TCUs as your smallest pro. Some might want a purple mastercam as well, but not actually necessary. Considering many other 5.11 trad lines in the gorge require tiny micronuts or long runouts with no pro, the gear on this thing is super safe and super straightforward. I would say from a safety/ease of gear perspective, this is the best 5.11 trad onsight in the Lower Gorge.

The rock at the crux is totally solid. There is a block a little further up that has a chalk X on it, but I yard on it every time and have never felt it move. Maybe just don't place pro behind it (tons of pro immediately above and below anyway). Aug 31, 2014
Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
[Hide Comment] Pretty much a boulder problem crux, everything after is sinker jamming. Good stuff, though. Dec 20, 2016