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Routes in The Dunce Cap

Dunce Cap, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Spirited Away T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Time Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waltzing in the Wonderland T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Randy Vogel, Vern Stiefel, 92
Page Views: 492 total · 3/month
Shared By: Randy on Mar 28, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route takes the obvious and long wide crack system on the right side of the North Face of The Duncecap.

Begin at the far left end of a very large ledge/block on the right side of the North Face. Access to the ledge is via a V0 boulder problem on its right end.

The initial section of the crack is bounded by two large flake/blocks; overcoming the top flake being the crux. Above, deceptively continuous and clean wide crack climbing (fortunately featured) continues up to a subsidiary summit. Finish up via an easy traverse left and up to the top of the formation.


Rappel 95 feet off the back of the formation; walk around the west side of the rock to return to your packs.


Cams 1.5 to 4-5 inches.



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