Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,253 total · 40/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 27, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


AKA: SC Memorial, This is a spectacular climb. Your rope will be stretched getting to the anchors and your thumbs will be pumped senseless. The crack begins with hands but quickly moves to cupped hands for infinity.


The SC memorial route is located to the right of Karin's Corner and around the corner of Fatted Calf.


Cams to #4 Camalot with extra #3.5 Camalots.
Anchors at the top.
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
My rack beta (in old Camalots): 1 #1, 2 #2s, 8-10 #3s, 2-4 #3.5s (most of the way 3.5s would be pretty crammed in, but there are a couple of wider spots.) The #1 is for the very top but you'll probably be too pumped to place it. Jan 31, 2007
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
Does anyone know the details behind Steve Caruthers? I know that he did quite a few hard FA's in the desert, and I assume that he is now deceased, but what else? Jan 13, 2008
Steve Carruthers was a hard climber and skier who died in a Utah backcountry avalanche.
I think it happened in Wolverine Cirque, but I'm not positive. Aug 16, 2008
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Yep. I think they were headed up from Butler Fork in BCC to Baker Pass. Some bad terrain in there. Had a beer with Steve in a friend's kitchen the week before. I'm always reminded of him when I use the bathroom at IME (he has some photo's on the wall in there). RIP. Aug 16, 2008
Looks soooooooooooooooooooooo good! There were a dozen people there that day and they all wanted to give it a go, next time. Nov 16, 2008
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
did this with one 3.5 and lots of 3's... having at least two 3.5's is recomended. also a new 4 can be placed. super stellar route Apr 20, 2009
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
I was the first guy of the year on this thing, the crack was absolutely filthy. both walls of the crack totally coated with sandy runoff. Sand in the hair, sand in the eyes, big fun. Good news for you guys is that my epic ascent scrubbed it a bit and it is good to go. What a crack! Oct 19, 2010

the first time i did this route, i was in the same boat. i remember dumping a bunch of sand right into my eyes and climbing for probably 40 feet or more with my eyes closed. i totally couldn't get the sand out, it was horrible. it is a much nicer route when it is clean, for sure. Oct 20, 2010
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
too funny slim, I was totally there. My vision was blurry for the rest of the day from the sand and dirt in my eyes under my contacts. My partner thought this was a bit of a hoot, and snapped a photo which really captured the zeitgeist, which I just uploaded. Oct 22, 2010
Steve was one of my best friends. He passed away on the S.W. face of Gobblers Nob while ski touring with another friend and my brother in-law. They were crossing a small avi path which sympathetically trigger from above. He was the last across and was swept into some fairly thick aspen trees. I was so devastated that I could not even speak at his memorial at Silver Fork Lodge. If you want more information about Steve send me a pm. love Oct 10, 2013

this is definitely one of the 5 star mega routes of the desert, and a fitting tribute to a desert legend. Oct 11, 2013
What a line! Got to do this on my last day this trip. Hiked up there for this one a few years back with a pack full of #3BDs and 4 friends but the route was being top roped the whole day by a giant party. Had to go back this trip and it was so worth it.

A few good hand jams lead to endless cups. The pods give you great rests but were also, for me, the cruxes climbing past them. I was able to keep the pump factor at bay with rests in the pods and even a no hands knee up high. Finish with good hands so save a 2.

Thanks for the history on Steve, a loss to many. Nov 5, 2013
Matt Enlow
Matt Enlow   Wyoming
If you're just totally worked, a .5 at the very end can make your head feel better. Dec 13, 2015
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Do cups splitters get any better than this? 5 stars.
It is useful to have at least 7-8 #3 and 2 #3.5 camalots or #4 friends for this route in addition to a couple #2 camalots.
The crack size is really baggy 3s or very tight 3.5s for much of the crack. Furthermore, the crack flares outward slightly but also opens up to the inside, so jamming and gear placements require more thought than one would expect.
I found it very helpful to pre-sling all of the gear with quickdraws to help keep the rope out of the crack. Since the splitter is frequently more of a slot, this helps prevent pinching the rope in the back of the crack with your feet. Oct 3, 2016