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Easter Overhang

5.10- PG13, Trad, 110 ft,  Avg: 3.4 from 8 votes
FA: FA Jim Stuart, Dave Beckstead 1962 FFA Jim Madsen, Ron Burgner 1967
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Tumwater Canyon > Midnight & Noon… > Midnight Rock
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Climb Description

This is a fantastic line up a classic feature that resembles two of the ancient statues from the pacific Easter Island. You'll enjoy the jams and physical moves of the crux going out the roof. T

Start in a short corner (wild traverse 5.9). Once you get to a ledge system 20ft up traverse right to the easter overhang crack proper. This crack begin with perfect hands and widens up higher. Continue out the roof and pull the lip. Belay off of gear back in a flare.

Protection to #3.5 camalots. In order to prevent ropedrag on this long pitch it is recommended to backclean gear on the lower dihedral to the left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jesse James
Knoxville, TN
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Don't be scared off by the offwidth description in the Climbing washington book. There are actually a few holds that make it quite a bit easier than it looks. If I remember correctly, there is a good looking pin at the bulge. Apr 13, 2006
jordand
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] This route ends in a squeeze chimney that goes on longer than you'd expect. Don't expect a pleasant top out after you get past the bulge. Sep 1, 2014
mark webster
Gig Harbor
[Hide Comment] I followed this route yesterday (badly). My partner Craig placed three yellow #2 camalots, three blue #3's, two fours, two 5's and a six, plus a normal assortment of smaller cams. It's important to stop and build an anchor as soon as the body slot starts to lean over and get easier. Don't go to the top of Midnight...the crack gets mossy up there, though there are rap stations on top of Midnight. Bring your partner up to your built belay and traverse right to the rap station on top of ROTC. It's by a couple large bushes. Two raps gets you back to the packs. We had a 70, but a 60 might work? The trail up is in decent shape, considering it's completely unmaintained. We belayed the last parts of the trail (on Midnight proper), but many people don't. The pin is still there at the roof, but a yellow #2 fits great right beside it. Oh, and don't bring a pack, the squeeze chimney is hard enough without getting tangled up in a pack...yeah, we brought one. Oct 8, 2018