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Routes in Omega Buttress

Annals of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Canada Regional Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5- M4-
Dihedral of Horrors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge of Horror, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Guardian of Death T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V10 7C+ C0-1
Manufactured Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Omega Crack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Omega Triangle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Keith Cattabriga, Dale Dawson, 1984
Page Views: 2,774 total, 19/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Mar 26, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

The final pitch is really the bread & butter of this route.

P1- 5.7R, 200': Climb a slab with minimal pro and trend left. Aim for a large, talus-covered ledge with a big tree. NOTE: The ledge can be reached by a gully to the left, but this is often wet, has much loose rock, and is generally unpleasant. You can also avoid the runout 5.7 portion by climbing an easy crack just to its right.Check the book for details if you want.

P2- 5.8, ~180': Spot a finger-hand crack on a blunt arete at the left end of the ledge. Climb this to a grassy ledge, where a belay can be set up (the seam you can see here is 5.10 and hard to protect, but with good moves). Continue up easy ground, aiming for the splitter crack in the upper headwall. Belay below this crack.

P3- 5.9, 120': Sweet finger-hand crack with a few nice jugs! Pull through three mini-roof sections utilizing finger and hand james. Very fun.

Location

Approach and Descent, see Omega Buttress

Protection

The crack takes a variety of gear. Maybe doubles in the .75"-2" range.

Photos

MJD
Jackson, WY
 
MJD   Jackson, WY
 
Last pitch makes it worth doing. Jul 19, 2017
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
What is the crack to the left of this route? May 27, 2014
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
  5.9
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
  5.9
The first two pitches are forgettable. The last pitch is stellar. Perhaps do Dihedral of Horrors, then rap down and do this last pitch. A good day. Feb 27, 2012