Annals of Time
Avg: 2.8 from 20 votes
Routes in Omega Buttress
|Annals of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Canada Regional Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5- M4-|
|Dihedral of Horrors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Edge of Horror, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Guardian of Death T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V10 7C+ C0-1|
|Manufactured Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Omega Crack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Omega Triangle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Keith Cattabriga, Dale Dawson, 1984|
|Page Views:||2,774 total, 19/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Stayner on Mar 26, 2006|
DescriptionThe final pitch is really the bread & butter of this route.
P1- 5.7R, 200': Climb a slab with minimal pro and trend left. Aim for a large, talus-covered ledge with a big tree. NOTE: The ledge can be reached by a gully to the left, but this is often wet, has much loose rock, and is generally unpleasant. You can also avoid the runout 5.7 portion by climbing an easy crack just to its right.Check the book for details if you want.
P2- 5.8, ~180': Spot a finger-hand crack on a blunt arete at the left end of the ledge. Climb this to a grassy ledge, where a belay can be set up (the seam you can see here is 5.10 and hard to protect, but with good moves). Continue up easy ground, aiming for the splitter crack in the upper headwall. Belay below this crack.
P3- 5.9, 120': Sweet finger-hand crack with a few nice jugs! Pull through three mini-roof sections utilizing finger and hand james. Very fun.