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Routes in Wall of Confusion

American Sportsman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Damage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Calanque, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Desert Pickle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fear and Loathing, III S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Makulu S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Promises in the Dark S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resin Rose T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Runaway, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sudden Impact S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Super Guide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Boyle and Boone Speed, 1988
Page Views: 15,705 total, 111/month
Shared By: Aimee Rose on Mar 23, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


169 Opinions

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Overhanging jugs for 6 bolts to a powerful crimpy roof pull to a balancy finish. A variation to the right exists after the 6th bolt, but it doesn't look as nice as going straight up.

Location

7th from the left.

Protection

8 bolts to chains.
Dan Austin
San Francisco, CA
  5.12a
Dan Austin   San Francisco, CA
  5.12a
Really fun route. Definitely worth starting from the sidepulls on the ground. Didn't try it by starting higher, but I doubt starting from the ground adds much difficulty. It does add some nice flow to the opening boulder problem, though! Jan 30, 2017
Derek Young
Denver, CO
 
Derek Young   Denver, CO
 
I thought I was cheating by starting in the huecos, but saw many people start higher and skip the opening moves. Path of least resistance always wins, but I'd say it really softens this thing to a tasty gelato. I'll try it from below the huecos next time. Either way, an amazing route! Thanks for bolting! Jan 2, 2017
Will Wright
Phoenix
 
Will Wright   Phoenix
 
But will you find the secret kneebar? Apr 10, 2016
ludia kochan
Las Vegas, NV
 
ludia kochan   Las Vegas, NV
 
Many people start from standing on the opposite side of the wall but the first 10 feet of the climb from the very bottom definitely adds to the the climb, it's so good. Start from the lowest crimpy sidepulls and work your feet up, it's all there. Not sure it makes it a 12b but it definitely keeps it sustained the entire way up (unlike it's 12b neighbor) Dec 31, 2015
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
A point of contention; I've watched several people climb this and am still not sure where the route starts? I've seen it tried from the low sidepulls, the huecos, and even the holds above the first bolt. You can reach all of them by standing on the rocks opposite the wall. I took the middle ground and started from the huecos below the first bolt and it was still not a trivial start. If you start from the crimpy sidepulls below this, with no feet, it makes the start the crux move of the route and I think likely bumps the grade to 12b? From the huecos, I think it's still comfortably 12a. Dec 25, 2015
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
 
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
 
John Bachar soloed this in the early 90's, probably many times. This was at least the third route in Vegas to be named "Fear and Loathing". Apr 8, 2013
Paul K.
West Fargo, ND
 
Paul K.   West Fargo, ND
 
I really liked this route, but I wasn't ready for the overhang. I made it through the crux, but between bad beta and my lack of overhang climbing I was too tired to finish. Especially when you finally make it throug the crux, then fall and have to redo it again. As far as ticks go, don't use them if you don't like them. Figure it out for yourself. I'm almost positive I did it different then most. There is a point where you can do a big move/dyno, but I opted for a more static way, which I believe is where the ticks are at. Mar 20, 2013
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.12-
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.12-
Using the slanted rock behind the route. You can pre-hang draws all the way to the 6th or 7th bolt with a cheater stick. Oh yeah, will yall calm down about the damn tick marks! Cry babies.
Jan 23, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.12a
On 1/29/11 the ASCA replaced the anchors on this route with 1/2 x 5" SS 5-piece bolts and equipped them with mussy hooks.

Two sets of old anchors were chopped and patched. Jan 30, 2011
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
ticking is not to be tolerated on anything below 13. Especially on a route as chalked and juggy as this precious gem. Mar 26, 2009
hEatchel
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12a
hEatchel   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12a
AMAZING climbing! def 12a in my book Mar 22, 2009
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12-
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12-
I went right at the 6th bolt and had to do a pretty hard undercling move that felt like the crux. I did see two ticked holds going straight up though. Jan 5, 2009
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12-
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12-
I love this route. Fun, steep, and big holds. There are some unreasonable tick marks on this route. Oct 13, 2008
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
Climbed at WOC last weekend. Would whoever is putting the retarded tick arrows on F&L please move... or at least tick holds that you actually need to use on the route!?! IDIOTS! Apr 17, 2007
426
 
426  
 
Sick fun but watch the belay down low...great for apes. Mar 19, 2007