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Routes in Way Gone Wall

Downclimb 101 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Energizer (aka Aerial Vermin), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Excaliber S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
God Walks Among Us S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jongleur Grey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minor Threat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Secret Agent Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: John Sherman (TR)
Page Views: 3,602 total, 25/month
Shared By: Aimee Rose on Mar 23, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

Thee most notorious 5.12a at the Pit. Bouldery, pumpy, and short. a colorful history and rad moves make this classic worth racking up for.

Can be PG13 if you fall going to the rail where you make the 2nd clip. Also recommended to stick clip the first bolt.

Location

4th route from the left.

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchors

Photos

Colin Cox  
 
Clipping bolts 2 and 4 is adequate on this route. It feels easier and easier the fewer bolts you clip. Pretend your bouldering to the second bolt then instead of clipping the 3rd do one more move and clip the 4th, then top out. Sep 15, 2015
Andrew Greene
Flagstaff, AZ
Andrew Greene   Flagstaff, AZ
There are 5 bolts but it seems like most skip the last bolt. Clipping it just adds to the pump and is a little hard to clean. Were you to fall clipping the anchors the 4th bolt is essentially at your feet. The new drop ins up top are really nice. Jan 22, 2013
Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
i climbed this route today and loved it. Sent it 3rd go! BETA; Going to the rail by the second bolt should be no problem to stick if you hit it on the right side. And the Energizer has 5 bolts not 4. Apr 7, 2012
socks, barefoot, sneakers and boots!....no wonder everything at the pit is so polished...put on some climbing shoes and quit mudding up the limestone Feb 25, 2012
The Captin  
 
I never did it in socks but I did do it barefoot and I aslo soloed it after all it is more like under 30' with the crux at the mid point. Oct 28, 2011
Chris said he did this climb in his logging boots, slippers, tennis shoes, flip flops, barefoot, and then CAMPUS it !! Jul 12, 2009
Thornley did this rig in wool socks. May 19, 2009
This climb has some pretty polished holds now. Apr 24, 2009
John McMullen
El Portal, CA
 
John McMullen   El Portal, CA
 
There were so many people TRing this thing on the first day it was climbed. Verm was one of them. He returned and pulled bolts one day, they were back a week later.
B Ward, J Gone, J Middendorf, Verm, More, Myself. Heck, Jim Bridwell may have been there that day ... it was a list. Apr 23, 2009
Dean Hoffman  
 
Think Boulder problem or so the story goes, the Verm back in the day sans rope and bolts Jun 14, 2007
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
I stand corrected. May 18, 2007
Ladd

  5.12a
Ladd    
  5.12a
My normal climbing partner wasn't belaying me on this climb, I fell going for the second rail and hit the ground.
My belayer was attentive, however very lightweight and neither of us knew anything about the route.
Just exercise caution. Apr 20, 2007
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
With a good, attentive belay going for the jug at the second clip should not be an issue. This route is characterized by hard moves between good rests. Take some time to study the starting moves. Done correctly they are not nearly as hard as they look. Feel free to hit me up for beta if needed. Nov 12, 2006