All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > Cave Springs > The Old School Routes
Book Of Friends
Avg: 3.2 from 24 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Scott Baxter and John Gault|
|Page Views:||3,434 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Orphaned on Mar 23, 2006|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionBook of Friends is a full on old school burl-fest type of a route. Lots of physical crack climbing on an incredible formation. Very cool!
P1) Climb corner that moves up and curls left at the top with the crux at the end. Belay in an alcove off wide cams. (5.10a)
P2) Climb up and out an overhanging corner on hands to where you do wide hands and fists out the left side to a belay in a tight constriction. (5.10c)
Pitch 3) Climb up the "Baxter 5.8" chimney above. This will feel harder than most other 5.8's since it's more like 5.9. Pull over a chockstone and then continue up. Straight up is supposed to be like 5.10, out left is unprotected 5.8 chimney. I had to go down here because the snow was getting the rock all wet.
LocationBook of Friends is approached from a pulloff near the old fish hatchery about 1/3rd to 1/2 way up the canyon. I'll have to check my notes for mileage. You can see the Book of Friends formation up on the north side of the canyon.
Appraoch by walking on the road towards where the hatchery was, then crossing the creek to the right. Get into a big gully, then up, up, up, with a bit of nosing around to get to the right formation. First pitch is a right-facing book with a nice-looking crack in it.