Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Baxter and John Gault
Page Views: 3,958 total · 25/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 23, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


26 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Book of Friends is a full on old school burl-fest type of a route. Lots of physical crack climbing on an incredible formation. Very cool!

P1) Climb corner that moves up and curls left at the top with the crux at the end. Belay in an alcove off wide cams. (5.10a)

P2) Climb up and out an overhanging corner on hands to where you do wide hands and fists out the left side to a belay in a tight constriction. (5.10c)

Pitch 3) Climb up the "Baxter 5.8" chimney above. This will feel harder than most other 5.8's since it's more like 5.9. Pull over a chockstone and then continue up. Straight up is supposed to be like 5.10, out left is unprotected 5.8 chimney. I had to go down here because the snow was getting the rock all wet.

Location

Book of Friends is approached from a pulloff near the old fish hatchery about 1/3rd to 1/2 way up the canyon. I'll have to check my notes for mileage. You can see the Book of Friends formation up on the north side of the canyon.

Appraoch by walking on the road towards where the hatchery was, then crossing the creek to the right. Get into a big gully, then up, up, up, with a bit of nosing around to get to the right formation. First pitch is a right-facing book with a nice-looking crack in it.

Protection

Solid rack of nuts/tri-cams and cams from 1/2" up to #4.5 Camalot.

Photos