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Routes in The Old School Routes

Book Of Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dresdoom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Lucky Goes to the Creamery T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Baxter and John Gault
Page Views: 3,434 total · 24/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 23, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Book of Friends is a full on old school burl-fest type of a route. Lots of physical crack climbing on an incredible formation. Very cool!

P1) Climb corner that moves up and curls left at the top with the crux at the end. Belay in an alcove off wide cams. (5.10a)

P2) Climb up and out an overhanging corner on hands to where you do wide hands and fists out the left side to a belay in a tight constriction. (5.10c)

Pitch 3) Climb up the "Baxter 5.8" chimney above. This will feel harder than most other 5.8's since it's more like 5.9. Pull over a chockstone and then continue up. Straight up is supposed to be like 5.10, out left is unprotected 5.8 chimney. I had to go down here because the snow was getting the rock all wet.

Location

Book of Friends is approached from a pulloff near the old fish hatchery about 1/3rd to 1/2 way up the canyon. I'll have to check my notes for mileage. You can see the Book of Friends formation up on the north side of the canyon.

Appraoch by walking on the road towards where the hatchery was, then crossing the creek to the right. Get into a big gully, then up, up, up, with a bit of nosing around to get to the right formation. First pitch is a right-facing book with a nice-looking crack in it.

Protection

Solid rack of nuts/tri-cams and cams from 1/2" up to #4.5 Camalot.
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
 
Anybody know what the sweet hand and finger crack is on the rappel? 2pitches with bolted anchors, wish we had time..! Feb 12, 2017
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
So much meaty climbing. Loved it from start to finish! Especially the incredigroovy trihedral on pitch two. Tape up for this one! Feb 11, 2017
Greg Malloure
Prescott Az
Greg Malloure   Prescott Az
DESCENT BETA (march 2015): Once you top out, the Bolts are 25 feet to the North (north as in the direction of Up Oak Creek Canyon towards flagstaff). 190 foot rap gets you to the next set of chains. One more clean rap to the Ground. 30 seconds to get you packs. Easy. Mar 31, 2015
awesome route, some of the best rock around Sedona, anchor is in good condition. Feb 5, 2015
The difficulty of the climb is greatly affected by the direction you face in the crux pitch. (like most wide cracks...) Jul 15, 2013
JMo
Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
Until I have led it or sent it (I have done neither), I can't say nothin'... But if you are sending some 10's and 10+'s at forks and waterfall, that don't mean jack here. Sandbag.

Stellar tho. I'll be bringin' the kitchen sink, as per Tyler, above. And yeah no more chains/easy retreat from top of p2. Kinda coulda used that.... Mar 25, 2013
Ryan Z
  5.10
Ryan Z  
  5.10
The climb was good and the approach was a piece of cake. Belayed off of nuts and a small cam at the top of P1, then we linked the last 2 pitches. The last pitch is a bit runout but I didn't think it was any harder than 5.8. The rap is right off the backside, we brought 2 ropes and it was straightforward. Mar 3, 2013
Tony Montana
Wilmer, BC
 
Tony Montana   Wilmer, BC
 
Who is John Gault? Feb 3, 2013
Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Dont do this with only 2 # 4 C4s. If so i would call it R rated! Bring a god damn #5! Also we forgot our second rope and with some trickery you can get to the ground.
Old school burl-fest! 5.10++++ Dec 3, 2012
JimmyK
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JimmyK   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Descent Beta: We climbed it on 10/8/12. Will Cobb's 7/30/08 posting is right on. There are rap anchors as described. Upon reaching the top of P3, scramble up and right, a short distance to the summit. The anchors are located at the top, backside of the summit on the north side (climber's right) of the rock formation. Oct 11, 2012
The original descent was to walk west & south and down to a gully that had a chockstone in it. Pretty simple, fast and straightforward as I recall. It seems like it was one longer rap, bit of a walk and then maybe a short bit and you were down. I think it drops you right into the Dr.'s Office. So, if you get stuck without anchors, keep it in mind. Sep 7, 2012
jayci
Flagstaff
  5.10c
jayci   Flagstaff
  5.10c
This route is about as good as it gets if you ask me. If only this corner went on for 1000'. Someone has indeed removed the rap anchor. Zack and I rapped off a really bad dead tree into a bush filled gully and then off a terrible piece of tat on a bolt. This climb is worth a good safe rap line! Mar 1, 2012
Zack S.
Prescott, AZ
Zack S.   Prescott, AZ
As of today, no bolts or chains anywhere on the route (and no need for them). Can't speak to the presence of a bolted rap route except to say that we didn't see it. Feb 29, 2012
Petair  
Does anyone know what happened to the rap anchors going down the left face of this route? I remember them being there the last time I did this climb a couple years ago. Is the rap down the back side the original way down? Just curious... Jun 25, 2011
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Did this route with Roman on 5/14 - Awesome! The whole thing is all old school burliness, even the 5.8 start and finish. The "5.7+" final pitch chimney was harder than anything on epinephrine I thought, which would make it 5.9+ in Red Rocks. Or 5.7 in Yosemite.

We ended up doing it in 4 pitches:
1) Up all the way into the alcove right before the crux bulge (~120ft)
2) Over the bulge to the chains (~20 ft)
3) Up the "trihedral" (fun!) to the top of the pillar (80 ft?)
4) Up the chimney to the top (80 ft?)

If I was doing it again, I would recommend not belaying at the chains and going from the alcove below the crux to the top of the pillar in the trihedral.

We rapped the route with 2 ropes. in terms of pro, we brought the kitchen sink - 2 new #4s 1 old #4, 2 new #5s, 1 old #5. Next time I'd leave the big guy. It was nice but not necessary to have the 2 new #5s.

park at the pullout right off the road to cave springs campground

P.S. What is the crazy looking right leaning overhanging crack across the canyon with the fixed ropes? Looks wild! May 15, 2010
Had a blast climbing this with Will, anyone know of a route climbing the opposite side, visible from the rapps Will describes? Aug 13, 2008
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Just climbed this route again with Dean today and it is still awesome. Two sets of cams to #4 Camalot plus a 4.5 and a 5 was great.

A bit of descent beta -

Rapping the route seemed pretty straight forward, but we took the Burcham raps down. These bolts as mentioned above are on the climber's right and sort of behind the route. A full 190' rap into a corridor brings you to two bolts with biners set in a chimney back behind you. As you near the end of your ropes start looking back and the anchor will be easily visible. Then rap down and out of the corridor. Walk about 30 seconds back to your packs. Jul 30, 2008
First ascent Scott Baxter and John Gault. Oct 28, 2007
Flex
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Flex   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Great summer route with an early start-perfect temps in the shade.

There are bolts/chains at the top of pitch 2 and bolts/webbing at the top of the route, however the Burcham rap route follows 2 sets of bolt anchors down to the climbers right from the top. Bring 2 ropes for the raps.

A classic route with good, well protected climbing on the crux. Jun 19, 2007
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Mark,

When Jon and I climbed this thing several years go it was not possible to rap the route. Has something changed?

Jon and I topped out in the dark and had to tie our ropes together and do one long single line rap back to the deck. Burcham told me that there are rap anchors, but we never saw them... Do you have new Beta?!? I want to go down this summer and repeat the route.

Will May 25, 2006
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 PG13
This is a great route, however it is very physically demanding. When I climbed it we took a double set of cams with one 4.5 camalot and one 5 camalot. This was very sufficient.

When I climbed the route we made our second belay on top of the chockstone that Greg describes. (Where he ended his adventure due to wet rock.) From here you are faced with two options - 1. The right hand variation is 5.10 and looks like thin hands. 2. The second variation is a 5.7+ to 5.8- chimney. Most of this pitch can be protected with #4 to #5 camalots being walked up the crack in the back of the chimney.

Other beta would be to wear long pants and to tape up. I don't think that I had any skin left on my hands after climbing this route... Mar 29, 2006