Avg: 3.8 from 82 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Read the route name|
|Page Views:||21,201 total, 149/month|
|Shared By:||Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2006|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionThis is one of the finest alpine routes you may ever experience. The climbing is sustained, varied, and amazing.
Burgner-Stanley is a direct and obvious route visible from the ground on superb rock with high quality pitches. Pitches 1-2 and 3-4 can be linked into c. 180-ft pitches, easily.
P1: Climb either a 5.6/5.7 chimney or a 5.8 wide crack to the left of the chimney to gain low fifth class terrain with trees.
P2: Scramble up to the last tallest tree, facing a knobbed wall with a thin crack going up.
P3: Climb the crack and exit right on large knobs until you reach the deep gully.
P4: Climb the gully and belay underneath a good ledge below the obvious chockstone. 5.8
P5: Tunnel between the chockstone and climb nice cracks up into a flaring squeeze chimney. Build a belay atop the chimney and move the belay right to start P6. 5.9
P6: Climb up the left facing corner and summit! 5.9+
Pro to 4" with doubles in .75 -2. Include TCU's.
Walk eastward once on the summit and rappel the north face with slung belay stations. Rappel with either 1 or 2 ropes.