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Routes in Prusik Peak

Der Sportsman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solid Gold T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Face Beckey-Davis Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stanley-Burgner Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Read the route name
Page Views: 22,010 total · 150/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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This is one of the finest alpine routes you may ever experience. The climbing is sustained, varied, and amazing.

Burgner-Stanley is a direct and obvious route visible from the ground on superb rock with high quality pitches. Pitches 1-2 and 3-4 can be linked into c. 180-ft pitches, easily.

P1: Climb either a 5.6/5.7 chimney or a 5.8 wide crack to the left of the chimney to gain low fifth class terrain with trees.

P2: Scramble up to the last tallest tree, facing a knobbed wall with a thin crack going up.

P3: Climb the crack and exit right on large knobs until you reach the deep gully.

P4: Climb the gully and belay underneath a good ledge below the obvious chockstone. 5.8

P5: Tunnel between the chockstone and climb nice cracks up into a flaring squeeze chimney. Build a belay atop the chimney and move the belay right to start P6. 5.9

P6: Climb up the left facing corner and summit! 5.9+

Pro to 4" with doubles in .75 -2. Include TCU's.

Walk eastward once on the summit and rappel the north face with slung belay stations. Rappel with either 1 or 2 ropes.


The route goes up the south face of the peak. Traverse the lake until you find the start. Walk off the west face route or rappel the north side of the peak. Also beware of the snafflehounds. They will eat your shoes, gear, etc!!!


A set of doubles to #3 camalots are best but many can go with less. There is little fixed gear on this route or at the top.
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
The Selected Climbs in the Cascades guidebook calls this route the South Face. Apr 17, 2006
There are over 10 routes on the south face. Everyone calls it the Stanley Burgner route so it is not confused with other lines like the South Face - Beckey Route, South Face - The Javalin, South Face - The Joust, etc., etc. Aug 16, 2006
Portland, OR
rpc   Portland, OR
I think it might be PG13 if you begin via the 5.7 chimney (have not done)? There are no runouts if you start via the 5.8 wideness just left of chimney. Everything else on the route can be laced up. Sep 8, 2006
Not that it really matters, but the route is longer than 500ft and isn't PG-13. Aug 23, 2009
Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
Wesley Ashwood   Squamish, BC
We did the 5.8 variation and immediately got into a beautiful hand crack which is way more appealing to me than any chimney out there. Linked this pitch with the short 4th class second pitch and belayed at the top of the larch trees. Went up the crack trending right, then up a short slab to a dihedral. I am not sure if this first dihedral you come to is a the standard route but it seemed a little stiffer that 5.8 to me (5.9 I would say). We also linked the 3rd and 4th pitches but I wouldn't suggest this as rope drag was a little much. Aug 2, 2010
I lead the chimney years go. Not very much fun. Go for the crack start. Nov 24, 2010
Ty Gittins
Ty Gittins   bozeman
i agree, not pg-13...crux pitch is well protected and oh-so-splitter Feb 11, 2011
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
If leading near your limit a 4 inch piece is very useful on the first 5.8 pitch (the left variation) as well as the final pitch. Aug 15, 2011
Stone Ridge, NY
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
We broke up the pitches differently than the guidebook and belayed on a good stance just after the chockstone chimney. This let us get cool pictures of the follower and have a better belay for the crux squeeze. I found the squeeze to the be the hardest part of the route - I'll call it 5.9+ because it felt like 5.10b.

Be careful on rappel, there's lots of loose rocks waiting for your rope to knock off. We found shredded rope ends at the bottom - yikes. Aug 25, 2012
William Rhyne
Casper, Wyoming
William Rhyne   Casper, Wyoming
My partner Tim B. and Myself just completed our car to car from the snow creek parking lot of the Stanley-burgner. We started at 1:56am and returned at 4:59 on 8-2-14. 14:55 hours was our time. We drove up from Portland Friday night and drove back Saturday night after the climb, think that was probably the crux for me.
We hauled up two fours and a Five but didn't use them at all. I thought the whole route protected well on gear up to 3-3.5 inch piece, even the wide sections take small gear.

Beautiful piece of rock and so quality. I Definitely want to try to a car to car for the solid gold route. Aug 5, 2014
eugene, or
iryna   eugene, or
Wonderful route, but it's only 5.9+ if you are a solid offwidth climber! I personally found it harder, the last pitch seemed like a burly 5.10-. the squeeze chimney is 5.impossible if you dont know how to climb narrow chimneys. we brought only one #4 cam and doubles in everything smaller, that #4 was used often. this is an adventurous route as we've learned, takes some balls to finish it. we climbed it in the middle of June expecting nice sunny weather, it became even more fun when it snowed on us :) topped out at 10 pm and had to find our way back in the dark. also, the approach requires a lot of energy, you have to be ridiculously fit to do it car to car, i applaud anyone who has done it. but the views are amazing! you only get to enjoy them if you work for them. Jun 15, 2015
Brett Purchase
Seattle, Washington
Brett Purchase   Seattle, Washington
I led every pitch on this route a couple of days ago. Just to clarify some misinformation out there: a number 5 is not needed on this route, the squeeze is hard work but protects great, and the descent can easily be done with one 60. It's certainly a very high quality route in an unmatched venue. Oct 9, 2015
Andy Jackson  
Did this route yesterday. Windy, cold and it even began to snow. The crux for me was definitely the flare chimney! Takes great gear (#.5 - #3) I found it very exhausting/tight (maybe because I'm 6'4"). The final headwall pitch is the money pitch for sure. We descended the west ridge with a few short raps to avoid the snow on the north face. Route dries quick and into play early in the season. Incredibly clean, solid stone!
Jun 13, 2016
Matt M
Seattle, WA
Matt M   Seattle, WA
The 4th pitch variation crack is really nice (the pitch before the keyhole slot, go around to the left and you'll see a hand crack on the face to your right) and worth doing. However, when you get to the top of the crack I think the anchor opportunities are poor there. Then you have to go right and step across to get to below the keyhole, and if you're not careful rope drag will be bad. Sep 14, 2016
Matt Quarre
Matt Quarre  
I would recommend the pitch 10b variation on pitch 4. Splitter!! However, the rope drag when passing back around the corner and under the chock stone is some of the worst I've experienced. Pitch 5 is damn hard. Pitch 6 is money. Aug 15, 2017
At the top of the 10b crack, there is some old tat slung around a chockstone that seemed pretty sketchy. The chockstone itself is great though and worked well for a hanging belay. You can also sling the horn/bulge just right of the chockstone with a cordelette. It was a great crack but if you're short on time or otherwise just trying to move quickly it might not be worth the detour as you end having to pitch it out to avoid the rope drag/rope getting pinched and stuck (as the previous two post's have pointed out). Aug 30, 2017
Centennial, CO
JShin   Centennial, CO
Chimney pitch is the most fun and 5.9/+ is right with proper chimney technique. Last pitch has everything. face, offwidth,stemming, hand jamming, sustained and long....5.9+ It is located in the core of Enchantment. Beautiful~ Sep 8, 2017
Did this yesterday.
-Only found bits and pieces of the approach trail from the main snow lakes trail over to the base of the route. I think if you go all the way to where the trail cuts across the outlet of Lake Viviane, you've passed the trail up to the route.
-We were definitely not able to link P3 and P4 on a 60m rope. Seems unlikely even on a 70m. We ran "P3" into "P4" and ended up between 15-20m short of the belay ledge on top of the chockstone. Moved the belay up to be in good position for P5.
-Thought P5 and P6 are of similar difficulty, but very different styles. P5 protects well with (1) #4, but you could sew it up with more. Not sure I wanted anything wider.
-Took doubles from tips to #2, with (1) #3 and (1) #4 which felt about perfect.
-If there is snow in the range, P6 might not be fully dry. Makes it quite a bit spicier.
-If you are considering the car to car in a day option, the gradual grade of approaching from Snow Lakes TH is recommended. I found this much easier than going over Asgaard Pass. Sep 24, 2017

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