Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Read the route name
Page Views: 24,477 total · 157/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


106 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the finest alpine routes you may ever experience. The climbing is sustained, varied, and amazing.

Burgner-Stanley is a direct and obvious route visible from the ground on superb rock with high quality pitches. Pitches 1-2 and 3-4 can be linked into c. 180-ft pitches, easily.

P1: Climb either a 5.6/5.7 chimney or a 5.8 wide crack to the left of the chimney to gain low fifth class terrain with trees.

P2: Scramble up to the last tallest tree, facing a knobbed wall with a thin crack going up.

P3: Climb the crack and exit right on large knobs until you reach the deep gully.

P4: Climb the gully and belay underneath a good ledge below the obvious chockstone. 5.8

P5: Tunnel between the chockstone and climb nice cracks up into a flaring squeeze chimney. Build a belay atop the chimney and move the belay right to start P6. 5.9

P6: Climb up the left facing corner and summit! 5.9+

Pro to 4" with doubles in .75 -2. Include TCU's.

Descent:
Walk eastward once on the summit and rappel the north face with slung belay stations. Rappel with either 1 or 2 ropes.

Location

The route goes up the south face of the peak. Traverse the lake until you find the start. Walk off the west face route or rappel the north side of the peak. Also beware of the snafflehounds. They will eat your shoes, gear, etc!!!

Protection

A set of doubles to #3 camalots are best but many can go with less. There is little fixed gear on this route or at the top.
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
The Selected Climbs in the Cascades guidebook calls this route the South Face. Apr 17, 2006
Addict  
There are over 10 routes on the south face. Everyone calls it the Stanley Burgner route so it is not confused with other lines like the South Face - Beckey Route, South Face - The Javalin, South Face - The Joust, etc., etc. Aug 16, 2006
rpc
Portland, OR
 
rpc   Portland, OR
 
I think it might be PG13 if you begin via the 5.7 chimney (have not done)? There are no runouts if you start via the 5.8 wideness just left of chimney. Everything else on the route can be laced up. Sep 8, 2006
Rafe
  5.9
Rafe  
  5.9
Not that it really matters, but the route is longer than 500ft and isn't PG-13. Aug 23, 2009
Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
  5.9+
Wesley Ashwood   Squamish, BC
  5.9+
We did the 5.8 variation and immediately got into a beautiful hand crack which is way more appealing to me than any chimney out there. Linked this pitch with the short 4th class second pitch and belayed at the top of the larch trees. Went up the crack trending right, then up a short slab to a dihedral. I am not sure if this first dihedral you come to is a the standard route but it seemed a little stiffer that 5.8 to me (5.9 I would say). We also linked the 3rd and 4th pitches but I wouldn't suggest this as rope drag was a little much. Aug 2, 2010
J-Wright  
 
I lead the chimney years go. Not very much fun. Go for the crack start. Nov 24, 2010
Ty Gittins
bozeman
  5.9+
Ty Gittins   bozeman
  5.9+
i agree, not pg-13...crux pitch is well protected and oh-so-splitter Feb 11, 2011
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
If leading near your limit a 4 inch piece is very useful on the first 5.8 pitch (the left variation) as well as the final pitch. Aug 15, 2011
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9+
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9+
We broke up the pitches differently than the guidebook and belayed on a good stance just after the chockstone chimney. This let us get cool pictures of the follower and have a better belay for the crux squeeze. I found the squeeze to the be the hardest part of the route - I'll call it 5.9+ because it felt like 5.10b.

Be careful on rappel, there's lots of loose rocks waiting for your rope to knock off. We found shredded rope ends at the bottom - yikes. Aug 25, 2012
William Rhyne
Casper, Wyoming
 
William Rhyne   Casper, Wyoming
 
My partner Tim B. and Myself just completed our car to car from the snow creek parking lot of the Stanley-burgner. We started at 1:56am and returned at 4:59 on 8-2-14. 14:55 hours was our time. We drove up from Portland Friday night and drove back Saturday night after the climb, think that was probably the crux for me.
We hauled up two fours and a Five but didn't use them at all. I thought the whole route protected well on gear up to 3-3.5 inch piece, even the wide sections take small gear.

Beautiful piece of rock and so quality. I Definitely want to try to a car to car for the solid gold route. Aug 5, 2014
iryna
eugene, or
5.10-
iryna   eugene, or
5.10-
Wonderful route, but it's only 5.9+ if you are a solid offwidth climber! I personally found it harder, the last pitch seemed like a burly 5.10-. the squeeze chimney is 5.impossible if you dont know how to climb narrow chimneys. we brought only one #4 cam and doubles in everything smaller, that #4 was used often. this is an adventurous route as we've learned, takes some balls to finish it. we climbed it in the middle of June expecting nice sunny weather, it became even more fun when it snowed on us :) topped out at 10 pm and had to find our way back in the dark. also, the approach requires a lot of energy, you have to be ridiculously fit to do it car to car, i applaud anyone who has done it. but the views are amazing! you only get to enjoy them if you work for them. Jun 15, 2015
Brett Purchase
Seattle, Washington
 
Brett Purchase   Seattle, Washington
 
I led every pitch on this route a couple of days ago. Just to clarify some misinformation out there: a number 5 is not needed on this route, the squeeze is hard work but protects great, and the descent can easily be done with one 60. It's certainly a very high quality route in an unmatched venue. Oct 9, 2015
Andy Jackson  
 
Did this route yesterday. Windy, cold and it even began to snow. The crux for me was definitely the flare chimney! Takes great gear (#.5 - #3) I found it very exhausting/tight (maybe because I'm 6'4"). The final headwall pitch is the money pitch for sure. We descended the west ridge with a few short raps to avoid the snow on the north face. Route dries quick and into play early in the season. Incredibly clean, solid stone!
Jun 13, 2016
Matt M
Seattle, WA
 
Matt M   Seattle, WA
 
The 4th pitch variation crack is really nice (the pitch before the keyhole slot, go around to the left and you'll see a hand crack on the face to your right) and worth doing. However, when you get to the top of the crack I think the anchor opportunities are poor there. Then you have to go right and step across to get to below the keyhole, and if you're not careful rope drag will be bad. Sep 14, 2016
Matt Quarre
  5.10-
Matt Quarre  
  5.10-
I would recommend the pitch 10b variation on pitch 4. Splitter!! However, the rope drag when passing back around the corner and under the chock stone is some of the worst I've experienced. Pitch 5 is damn hard. Pitch 6 is money. Aug 15, 2017
At the top of the 10b crack, there is some old tat slung around a chockstone that seemed pretty sketchy. The chockstone itself is great though and worked well for a hanging belay. You can also sling the horn/bulge just right of the chockstone with a cordelette. It was a great crack but if you're short on time or otherwise just trying to move quickly it might not be worth the detour as you end having to pitch it out to avoid the rope drag/rope getting pinched and stuck (as the previous two post's have pointed out). Aug 30, 2017
JShin
Centennial, CO
JShin   Centennial, CO
Chimney pitch is the most fun and 5.9/+ is right with proper chimney technique. Last pitch has everything. face, offwidth,stemming, hand jamming, sustained and long....5.9+ It is located in the core of Enchantment. Beautiful~ Sep 8, 2017
Skander Spies
Seattle, WA
Skander Spies   Seattle, WA
Did this yesterday.
-Only found bits and pieces of the approach trail from the main snow lakes trail over to the base of the route. I think if you go all the way to where the trail cuts across the outlet of Lake Viviane, you've passed the trail up to the route.
-We were definitely not able to link P3 and P4 on a 60m rope. Seems unlikely even on a 70m. We ran "P3" into "P4" and ended up between 15-20m short of the belay ledge on top of the chockstone. Moved the belay up to be in good position for P5.
-Thought P5 and P6 are of similar difficulty, but very different styles. P5 protects well with (1) #4, but you could sew it up with more. Not sure I wanted anything wider.
-Took doubles from tips to #2, with (1) #3 and (1) #4 which felt about perfect.
-If there is snow in the range, P6 might not be fully dry. Makes it quite a bit spicier.
-If you are considering the car to car in a day option, the gradual grade of approaching from Snow Lakes TH is recommended. I found this much easier than going over Asgaard Pass. Sep 24, 2017
6/18/18
CAUTION!

P6: Now has dangerous chockstones & choss in the first half.
The bottom half is a wider crack (the effected area), which brings you to the stunning splitter section (no choss here). A big rock fall must have happened, two days prior to when we climbed this, from a thunderstorm. Two people were on Prusik during the storm, who reported that heaps of rock fell down on them. This must be one of the effected areas.

  • In the lower wider section, there are medium chockstones and dinner plates that are not secure. Above these there is a large chalk stone that looks okay to pull on from the bottom, but is not. DO NOT PULL ON THE BIG CHOCKSTONE. It is surely to come out in the near future and could be life threatening. It is challenging to climb in the crack now, and stemming around them is quite challenging. This is my second time climbing this route; the condition of the route completely clean when I climbed it 5 years ago.

I attempted to tip the large chockstone out after passing, yet I had trouble positioning myself from a place to lever it out. Little sand/debris held it in place. The debris is likely to wash out after another few storms, so be cautious. If the block is still there, and nobody at Pursik, please help to clean the route!

If you climb this after I did, and it the crack climbs safe, please note that for future users; thanks! Jun 27, 2018
Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA
  5.10a
Marlin Thorman   Spokane, WA
  5.10a
In reply to Karen's comment. I climbed this route on July 5th and didn't notice anything too crazy on the last pitch. There were a few loose rocks here and there like most alpine climbs, but I definitely didn't find anything super dangerous. Maybe someone else trundled them already or they fell out on there own.

And whatever you do, climb the 5.10b crack variation on pitch 4. It is some of the best crack climbing in the alpine I have done. I setup a belay below the chockstone and extended it down so it was in line with the traverse back over from the top of the crack. This reduced the rope drag a lot from trying to go all the way to the top of the chockstone. Jul 9, 2018
Kerrick Robinson
Corvallis, OR
  5.10b
Kerrick Robinson   Corvallis, OR
  5.10b
Climbed this route 7/15/18 c2c with the Aasgard Pass/Steward & Colchuck Lakes TH approach. I think our fatigue from the approach and heat made the route feel much harder (Forecast said 50-60 F, but it was much hotter). The finish to the final pitch was excellent, but the lower section of the pitch left much to be desired. I thought the move past a small roof created by a chockstone about 2/3s up was the most challenging move on this pitch. Only encountered one loose block on this pitch, it moved with outward pull but would hold a fall if slung. We used our #4 on at least 3 pitches. Probably not needed but provided a good sense of security, especially on the flare.
We approached the base of the climb from Prusik Pass which was pretty straightforward. Hung our packs on the east ridgeline to retrieve them on the way out. Had the whole peak to ourselves on a summer weekend!
Looking forward to climbing again, but hopefully with an overnight permit in hand.

Happy climbing! Jul 17, 2018