5.12a,
Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Chad Suchoski.
California
> San Francisco B…
> E Bay Area
> Mt Diablo SP
> Pine Canyon
> Teeth
Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked hereparks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
Recently broken holds on this route make the bolts seem useless. Not a good one to try and lead until the bolt placements are moved. Start by jumping up to a large beach and manteling up into a pocketed face full of jugs and finger pockets. Finding the holds and linking the moves is a challenging affair. Hint: move left, then work back right. Reachy and sustained.
Location
This is a hard one to find. Look for a natural break between the teeth. On your right you should see a small cave and tree. Start just to the right of this small tree. Scramble around the back side up a steep gully to reach the anchors.
Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
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