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Chairman Mao's Little Red Book
5.11a,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.1 from 7
votes
FA: FA -unknown, FFA Jeff Thomas, Chris Jones, Alan Watts -July 21, 1979
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (u) Red Wall
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This underated climb is a fine outing that can be done as two pitches or as one long pitch with a 60m rope. The crux comes where you expect on the brilliant 2nd pitch dihedral.
Pitch 1: Begin to the right of Ride the Lightning in a left facing dihedral up to the base of the book.
Pitch 2: Use stemming, palming, fingerstacks to make your way up the perfect corner. You'll be wishing there was more.
Location
Rap with two ropes.
Protection
Nuts and cams to one inch. Bolted anchor at top.
![Karsten climbs the beautiful 2nd pitch dihedral.]()
[Hide Photo] Karsten climbs the beautiful 2nd pitch dihedral.
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Portland, Oregon