PRINT: Rock Climb [Redacted], Smith Rock

[Redacted]

5.10a R, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 2 from 5 votes
FA: Chuck Buzzard 1980
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

This pitch starts at the anchor atop Sundown. Climb the face above the dihedral on small knobs and edges veering left to the anchor above the crux of Mingas Morgul. The traverse left is a bit runout.

This can be combined with Sundown into one long lead. (recommended)

Either Rap from here with one 60m or continue on for one more pitch of 5.9 up Mingas Morgul to the ledge where Tale finishes.

Location

Above Sundown

Protection

draws (gear to 2" if starting with Sundown)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

This was recently updated with glue-ins. Hopefully no longer having to clip 3/8" split shafts with ancient SMC hangers will breath some new life into this one! Jan 31, 2022