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Sundown

5.9, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 42 votes
FA: Alan and Shari Kearney 1978
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (q) Mesa Verde Wall
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

There is a newer anchor at the top of this climb making it more convienient to get off of and avoids the traverse at the top.

Jam and stem a clean dihedral to the right of a huge block leaning against the face.

Location

Protection

standard gear to 2"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Liebacking the shallow dihedral of Sundown. <br>
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Photo: Corey Gargano
[Hide Photo] Liebacking the shallow dihedral of Sundown. Photo: Corey Gargano

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] There is now an extension to this route. Its a bolted two pitch extension. You can link from the ground to the partial hanging belay with a 70m rope(might be able to reach with a 60M rope but haven't tested it out yet) You could also belay from the Sundown anchor if you are concerned about rope length. The first pitch above Sundowns anchor is about 10b range. Needs a few more folks on it to clean it up better, but overall its very solid. From the 10b anchor its around 11c range for 40' to the upper anchor. Great climbing on good rock! Get after it!
rough line of climb
Nov 2, 2015
Serge S
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Can be led almost entirely with nuts. ~11mm cam useful for protecting the start. Sep 5, 2016
Sabrina Oesterle
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The start of this route seemed hard for 5.9 (super bouldery if doing the direct start or a bit R = sketchy because you have to traverse in from the left on the slabby face before getting any gear in). Apr 23, 2018
Dom R
Estes Park, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Pretty good line, doesn’t seem like it gets climbed as much as it should, but I’m new here so who knows. The left start which traverses in is a bit heady for sure but is very secure with either a good foot or hand the whole way. The rest is just finger locking fun with good stances and gear. Don’t need more than a #1 Camalot, could sew it up with .3 and .4’s. There’s a loose rock partway up that seems like it could go, I didn’t pull too hard on it, and it’s not big, but may require some light treading, that said I sure used it as a foothold haha. Go climb this line! Nice way to pass the time while waiting for lines on moons of Pluto, etc. Nov 10, 2018