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Doc's Holiday

5.10d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 173 votes
FA: (TR) Brad Singer & Mike Rigney, 1989, FL: Rich Scholes & Mike Rigney, 1990, Direct Start: Pete Paredes, Chuck Scott, Chris Miller & Nathan Mitts, 7/01
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Big Bear City Area > Holcomb Valley… > Central Pinnacles > Doc Holliday Wall

Description

Easy moves past three bolts lead up a featured face to the base of the smooth headwall. Clip the 4th bolt and then head up the steep, smooth face using small but positive crimps that appear just as you need them. After clipping the last bolt head straight up on jugs to finish on a small ledge with anchors.

The bottom portion of this was originally climbed via a loose hand crack to the right; years later a direct start was added which boosted the popularity of this quality route.

Location

Scramble up 20' right of Pistol Pete to reach this area classic which tackles the smooth-looking face up the middle of the formation.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchors

(all bolts 1/2 inch SS)

* Bolts replaced 2019

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Doc's Holiday (5.10c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Doc's Holiday (5.10c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Josh at the finish of Doc's Holiday.  One of my favorite climbs at Holcomb.
[Hide Photo] Josh at the finish of Doc's Holiday. One of my favorite climbs at Holcomb.
Myself on Doc's Holiday
[Hide Photo] Myself on Doc's Holiday
Jayson Matthews blasting through Doc's Holiday, 5.11a, on the Doc Holiday Wall.
[Hide Photo] Jayson Matthews blasting through Doc's Holiday, 5.11a, on the Doc Holiday Wall.
Up on the series of crimps that make this route a 10.d
[Hide Photo] Up on the series of crimps that make this route a 10.d
Up on the series of crimps that make this route a 10.d
[Hide Photo] Up on the series of crimps that make this route a 10.d
Doc's Holiday (5.10c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Doc's Holiday (5.10c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Heads up....edges are running out!
[Hide Photo] Heads up....edges are running out!
mid-section of Doc's<br>
<br>
Photo by Leslie King
[Hide Photo] mid-section of Doc's Photo by Leslie King

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This too is a great route. The crimps creak a bit but held my bacon so they were solid enough. As in the description, the crimpy holds show up just as you need them and all the clipping stances are solid. Jun 1, 2008
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I found this to be the most attractive line in the area. May 30, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Alas the crimps didn't just show up for me - I had to search for them, and when I found them I had to resist all temptation to immediately reject them in favor of as yet undiscovered better crimps, glad I did that because despite the seemingly woefully inadequate nature of a few of them they actually managed to help my sorry booty to the top without any falls.

Quite an intense route for me. Sep 23, 2012
[Hide Comment] This route was excellent. The holds were really tiny for a 10d, but there were a lot of them in useful places. Good mental challenge. Aug 6, 2013
Phil Esra
5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Really fun. Mostly pretty easy--my partner and I, very different bodies/heights/strengths/styles, both found this route easier than Pistol Pete's next door. Weird. May 4, 2014
Will Cornell
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] This route is awesome! perfect crimpy face climb. BTW: does anyone know if this route happens to be named after the character from Steinbeck's "Cannery Row" ? ...just curious. Sep 15, 2014
[Hide Comment] Nope, nothing to do with Cannery Row. In reference to Doc Holiday from the OK Corral. Keeping with western theme and all. Oct 7, 2014
Aaron covington
Pinon hills, ca
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome route! body movement does it all! get yourself in the right place for the next move and the route is easy if you are good at crimping and pinching!!! May 31, 2015
Olsen Aviles
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] This route is every bit of 5.10d... maybe even 11a. Cruise up until the 3rd or 4th bolt and from then on it's very sustained climbing. While the clipping stances on one or two bolts may feel very tentative for someone not accustomed to sustained crimpy climbing (i.e. me) rest assured the holds are all there and the falls are all clean with a competent belayer... even if you blow a clip. I could maybe see someone who excels at crimps finding this easier than Pistol Pete nearby but, just for reference I flashed Pistol Pete and had to hang my way up this route.

Beta Alert Crux is 2nd bolt from top, look for hidden side pull crimp up and left to gain the teasing jug above the bolt. The two finger half pad crimp under the bolt makes the climb harder. Apr 18, 2016
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Classic! The very forgettable bottom gives way to awesome exposed edging on smooth rock for 3-4 clips. Nice and delicate, but all of the crimps are there when you need to clip. May 28, 2016