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Routes in (e) Western Ship - River Face

Caffeine Free S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caffiene Free Finish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Yuk S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Nacho Libre S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Phone Call From Satan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Purple Headed Warrior S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slit Your Wrist S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Solar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time's Up S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 165 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Upper Pitch: Dean Fry and Russ Bunker 1973 F.F.A. Thomas and Lyford 1977
Page Views: 2,005 total, 14/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Fun climb that goes to the top of the West Ship.

Pitch 1:
Traverse in across the face to the anchor at the top of Phone Call From Satan
5.8 30 ft.

Pitch 2:
Step left from the anchor and proceed up a thin crack through a black face to a large ledge with a bolted anchor.
5.8 40 ft.

Pitch 3:
Follow the large dihedral up and left to the top of the formation and a bolted anchor with rap rings.
5.9 60 ft.

  • Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined with the first pitch of Phone Call From Satan into one long 175' lead (recommended)

Rap with a 60m rope to the anchor at the top of Caffine Free then one more rap to the ground.

Location

Start in the gully on the East side of the formation or begin with Phone Call

Protection

nuts and cams to 2"

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
Also did this with Phonecall from Satan as one pitch, 70m single rope rap to ground from top. Mar 14, 2017
stj
 
stj  
 
The thin crack right above the Phone Call from Satan anchor is definitely the crux, fairly hard for 5.9. It can be avoided by traversing left around a shallow corner (5.7). The upper two pitches protect well and link up nicely with Phone Call. Definitely combine pitches to do this in 1 or 2 leads from the ground.

It is possible to rap from the ledge at the base of the dihedral (start of P3) to the ground with a single 60m rope. Jan 19, 2014
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
You can also climb this by climbing Caffeine Free and linking directly into Solar. Climb up and clip the first bolt of the extension of Caffeine Free, then step right into the thin crack. Do it all in one pitch! Dec 19, 2012
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
I think its the first pitch traverse from the bottom of Toxic around the corner. Its not too bad but there is the potential for a pendulum. I recall the rest of the route has bomber gear. Feb 21, 2010
Anyone care to mention what makes this an R-rated route in the books? Feb 21, 2010
mark d
 
mark d  
 
i would second, that linking this route with phone call from satan, is the best way to do it.

rpc- that bolt is part of the caffeine free finish. i wonder myself why it was put there. Mar 20, 2006
rpc
 
rpc  
 
"and proceed up a thin crack through a black face"

That opener of pitch 2 (which Watts does rate 5.8) seemed (to me anyway) MUCH harder than anything else on that route. Can't get the fingers in the crack and the big block is a bit "shifty".

There was also a single bolt near top of dihedral - not sure why it's there as the crack offers good pro all the way up. Mar 20, 2006