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Routes in The Grand Wazoo

Grand Wazoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: G. Parker, D. Bingham, Al Marshall, 1970's
Page Views: 1,317 total, 9/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Mar 19, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

The Grand Wazoo is the spire between T. Rex and Summit Block Rock. This route is good, but it is not for a beginning Sedona climber like you would think by reading the Toula guide. The rock is solid though, and the climbing fun face climbing and lie-backing. The original 5.7 rating is defiantly a sandbag, and the pro is thin in spots. The route gets sun all day.

P1: 5.7 (sandbag) 60' Start at the base of the only crack to reach the ground on the southwest face. The first 20' are protected by thin nuts and micro cams. A committing lieback 40' up leads to a steep limestone bulge. Pull over on jugs and build a belay on the ledge. Belay takes fingers and a 3.5 Camalot. I thought this pitch was 5.9+.

P2: 5.7 (sandbag) 60' Continue up the crack (mostly face climbing) to the chimney slot. Just before the slot, face climb out right to a bolt (can't see it until you're there). Belay at a tiny tree on a ledge. I though this pitch was 5.9+.

P3: 5.7 30' Move the belay to the west face, and climb up an awkward hand crack, to easy face climbing and the summit. You have to down climb this pitch to get off.

Descent: The summit has no anchor, so down-lead the last pitch and walk back to the small tree. A 60-meter rope will just get you to scrambling distance of the ground with rope stretch. The tree is small and sketchy even by Sedona standards. As of 12/2011 there was a fixed nut to back up the tree.

Location

Park at Chimney Rock Parking (end of Andante Road). Follow Andante trail east toward T. Rex and Botany 500. After 0.25 miles go left on a small trail. After a few hundred feet this will intersect a larger trail below Botany. Take a right and follow this trail all the way to below the Grand Wazoo. Scramble up to the base of the spire. The route starts about 100' left of the chimney between Grand Wazoo and Little Middle Pecker Pinnacle.

GPS: 34,52.974 N 111,48.066 W

Protection

Nuts, 2 each black Alien thru 3.5 Camalot.

Photos

Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I changed the route description because I'd hate for a new comer to Sedona to get hurt on this route. I climbed this again recently and it is much harder with poorer pro than I remember. At least 5.9, and tricky thin pro at the start.

I thought I was gripped last time because I didn't have faith in my gri-gri self belay system. After climbing it with a proper belay now, I think it's fair to say this climb is a fairly serious affair for a weekend punter like myself.

p.s. I climbed this again because we bailed off of Little Middle Pecker. Anyone done that? Know the grade? I want to get back in shape and give it another try some time if I ever move back. After climbing up and down the same 3 feet of rock about 5 times my partner reminded me that I have a kid and I was out of there. Jan 17, 2012
Bill Wright
5.10b/c R
Bill Wright  
5.10b/c R
I've done just the first pitch twice now. The first time I did it was about two years ago and I felt it was at least 5.9. I just did this on March 23rd and I think it was 10+ R. The day before I climbed Earth Angel (10-) and afterwards we climbed T-Rex (10-) and this pitch is definitely harder and much more dangerous than anything on those other two routes. I still need to go back and finish this route. Good to know that things will get easier above. The first time I was with my wife and she couldn't follow. I rapped off a sling draped over a limestone horn. The second time we figured we must be on the wrong route and bailed again. Mar 28, 2010
briz  
It is very possible that the first pitch is now harder. I took a lead fall on the first pitch while attempting to pull the lieback. I had three pieces in up to that point, a .3 25 feet from the deck, a 00 30 feet up, and a .4 40 feet up and a five feet below the lieback. The .4 and 00 both popped. They were placed in the only places I could find that had a chance of holding. Because of the damage to the cams (one was severely tweaked) and judging by the rock stuck to the lobes of the cams, I would say there is a good chance that the rock around where the gear was placed exploded and is now gone. At the very least, if the rating didn't change the pro probably did which was sketchy at best before this incident. Since I decked and my partner and I were quite shaken, we did not go back for a second look. Feb 12, 2007
Seth Dyer
  5.9
Seth Dyer  
  5.9
A decent Sandony excursion. I'd give it old-school spice factor 9. Great summit... Dec 25, 2006
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+ PG13
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+ PG13
Damn Kole, you must be a Bad Ass. That 1st pitch seemed like 5.9+ with very small gear on poor rock. Second pitch was sweet; the third didn't seem as hard or awkward as you stated; down-climbing to the ledge was pretty easy. The rap seemed bomber enough (for a 2in diameter tree) Nov 27, 2006