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Routes in Climb Bandits Area

Climb Bandits T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Sal Mamusia 1989
Page Views: 237 total · 2/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Mar 18, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a great looking crack that angles up and right; hits a small pod with two large blocks; follows a hand crack vertically to a bulge where you traverse left about 8 feet and follow another hand crack to the top of the formation. WARNING; I have not finished this climb, the right angling crack down low takes great pro around 1", but the two large blocks at the pod are VERY rotten rock and will NOT take gear. I tried to get a cam up higher into another solid crack but had my pro blow out of the rotten rock first and decked before I could get the good piece clipped. The sides of the block are very rotten and I watched them literally flex about 3 inches before my cam popped. Be very careful if trying to protect this route on lead as that section is bad. See the photos

Location

You can't miss the route on the block in the middle of the gully. It's the obvious right angling crack; the walk off would be very easy off the back and down the gully on the west side of the wall.

Protection

No bolts; all traditional protection ranging from small cams and nuts to around 3". No fixed gear and no anchors on top either.

Photos

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