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Routes in Mt. Winchell

East Arete T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
McKenzie's Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southwest Chute T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine
FA: B.Putnam, J.N.Newell, H.C.Mansfield - June 10, 1923
Page Views: 1,991 total · 13/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Mar 17, 2006
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A really fun route with a great finish.

Scramble up boulders in the righthand chute on the southeast side of the peak. This becomes increasingly steeper and narrower until it reaches the shoulder of the arete proper. Scramble along the basically horizontal knife-edged section to the summit pyramid. A chute on the left brings you onto the miniscule summit.

Location

Approach
Find a way to Sam Mack Lake, either from Sam Mack Meadow by heading north and then around to the left, or from 3rd Lake by hiking up to the Meadow and bearing right before reaching it. Pass the lake on the left, then head right into a gully which will bring you out onto the shoulder which leads to the start of the route.

Descent
Retrace your steps.

Protection

3rd Class

Photos

Climbed this way back in 2002. Really enjoyable. We had seven on the summit at one time! Aug 2, 2012
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
 
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
 
This was a long day from Sam Mack Meadow. We aren't fast, and it took us about five hours each way. If you're lucky, or time it correctly, most of your approach will be on snow. Great views. Jul 3, 2015

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