[Hide Comment] Listed as trad but i think most people just clip the bolts for Jim Beam while they climb this. Jul 3, 2017

[Hide Comment] no, don't lead this crack by clipping the Jim Beam Arete's bolts, and don't suggest this unless you've led it that way yourself. one could, but beware of the potential dangers. JBA's 2nd and 3rd bolts are more than a full wingspan right of the crack, and would force one out of the crack onto pumpy steep face harder than the crack's 5.8 rating. if one peels off just prior to traversing out to clip that 3rd bolt, the resulting big fall with bad swing could deck the leader against rock features right of the start. a protruding big horn above the 3rd clip and before the 4th would also cause rope issues

plenty of people lead this crack with cams for its own fun, or as warm-up for the other harder crack lines like More Punk Than Funk and Boilermaker Jul 31, 2018

[Hide Comment] If leading by just clipping the Jim Beam Arete bolts, which is not too bad if already using the numerous face holds left and right of the crack, a .5 BD can be placed in the final crack leading to the anchor to avoid a bad fall onto the bulge. Jul 31, 2018