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Sleepytime

5.6, Trad,  Avg: 1.2 from 6 votes
FA: S. Marlatt & J. Booton, 1982 (maybe)
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > W Ridge > W Ridge - part A - Ve…
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Description

Did this many years ago, after deciding that we didn't have enough small pieces to lead Morning Thunder. It's a bit of a thrutch, and I'd be very surprised if we were the FA - but since I've never seen it described elsewhere, I thought I'd add it. If nothing else, it makes an interesting alternative approach to the Allosaur amphitheatre.

Start just to the right of Morning Thunder (just left of the large block). Head straight up on decent pockets to an S-shaped crack. Continue up to the obviously, left-angling shelf and wallow up to the hole under Jam Con.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sleepytime (original photo is Ivan Rezucha's shot of Morning Thunder).
[Hide Photo] Sleepytime (original photo is Ivan Rezucha's shot of Morning Thunder).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mathias
Loveland, CO
[Hide Comment] The guidebook has this down as a 5.7 PG-13. It also shows a different route which runs up the crack and onto the ledge, then up and into a rotten band with crappy gear. Don't do it that way, follow the route in the beta pic, and you'll be much happier.

I took the route in the book and had a hell of a time. Took on a small cam in a bad placement (only one I could reach) and had it blow. Later took a fall on a tricam. I wish I'd seen the beta photo first. Apr 5, 2015
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] I did the route as described in the new guidebook, not the line in the photo here. Mostly chossy and runout but has a few good moves. One star only because it's in a cool spot at Eldo. Nov 10, 2018