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The Unsung War
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 11 votes
Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Chad Suchoski, Jenn Codina |
Page Views: | 2,865 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Mar 15, 2006 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
This is a two pitch route. The first pitch climbs a runnout 60ft chimney with one bolt about half way up to a sandy spacious ledge. The second pitch climbs an over hanging hand crack (crux) for 12ft then up into a tight dihedral with everything form fingers to fists up to another spacious ledge where you traverse out right and up the face past a few bolts to the top. The route's a bit dirty but not too bad, its probably only seen two ascents. The bolts and anchors are all bomber and it takes gear well. Plenty of spots to fire something in. This route is south faceing and is always in the shade. You can climb an arching crack out on the face to avoid the chimney on the first pitch. Its a bit loose and not as fun. You can also traverse out left across the chimney to the buttress face at the start of the second pitch and climb 5.7RX to the top avoideng the crack system all together. I looked at it and gave it a brief go. I don't have the balls, maybe you do. Theirs one old mank bolt for pro, yippie.
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