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Routes in Upper Tier

5.10 Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chouinard's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pie Crust T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 153 total, 1/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Mar 15, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

The crux is getting off the ground. Once above the initial moves you can follow the crack (5.7ish) to just below the top. Theirs a blank section of rock I have not figured out how to get around so topping out would be runnout and difficult on lead. The crack is solid and a real fun intro to crack climbing, if you can get to it. Personally I think it's best to toprope this one.

Location

Located to the far right side of the upper tier. Start by giving yourself an extra reach by standing on the log at the base. This route sees a lot of shade. Its also rarely climbed due to the tough start. If you can get past the start, you'll have a great moderate crack all to your self.

Protection

Cams .75"-3" Long 20+ ft slings for toprope.

Photos

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Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
Anchors were replaced for this route down low. You need to rap into the anchors for setting up a TR. Anchors were set low to eliminate rope scaring from TRing. Inconvenient yes, but it's the only solution to the growing rope grooves from the previously existing setups. Sep 2, 2013