[Hide Comment] Consensus grade = 12c. Especially considering Prop is far far harder. Jan 30, 2014

[Hide Comment] The less draws clipped on rainy day the better for crux clip and finishing the brief balancey slab bit to chains, rope drag is a real "drag" there.

At a minimum skip/unclip the second to last bolt of rainy day, if clipped this makes the rope jog HARD right and leads to the first draw of hydro getting pulled at a 90 degree angle, spinning the hanger horizontally (despite hanger being tight to rock and torqued). Please don't clip that second to last bolt of rainy day, it's really annoying having to straighten out this hanger before making that high clip.
Last draw on rainy day is now quite long and will keep a straight rope run from the other long draws into hydro.

Also recommend to not clip the long draw and second draw off the ledge of rd (second can be unclipped after getting third draw clipped). Jul 8, 2020

[Hide Comment] Very approachable for the grade. Only a few bolts long, but really enjoyable! Jul 13, 2020

[Hide Comment] I disagree with Ben but I think Prop is easier if you are tall and hydro if you are short. Regardless, this route is not permanently dry and seeps right before the final crux. Separately, I think a discussion needs to be had maybe on the ledge, but about what to do with not engaged bolts on the wall. The second to last bolt has eroded the rock to the point .25 inches now protrude out the hole and you can see the sleeve. While I wouldn't consider it dangerous right now, at somepoint it will be.

Also if you wanna understand the real choss that is world wall look hard right at the last bolt.

All that said, I think this climb is great and borderline worth travelling to do. Jun 20, 2023

[Hide Comment] Given that the last two bolts are about 2 feet apart and the second to last one is sticking out of the wall, I chose to extend the last bolt with a shoulder length sling and clip it from the same stance, skipping the 2nd to last. If you’re tall you can maybe reach the higher one from the same stance anyway. Extending also helps keep the rope out of the way of the feet as you get into the final slab…but you would fly if you blew the moves to the chains. Sep 26, 2023

[Hide Comment] I whipped on the 2nd to last bolt this year fwiw (once), seems like it still works. I skip the last bolt half the time cause it's located awkwardly if you go to the jug out right to end the crux. Everyone I ever saw climb it or talk about it goes there, that makes clipping the last bolt a hassle and you are unlikely to fall after that anyway... Also I'm 6'3" +0 and I cannot reach it from any reasonable stance before that. Dec 14, 2023