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Routes in North Wall

Blood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bush League, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Graspin' for Straw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pineapple Thunderpussy (aka Magic Carpet Ride) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Radical Sabbatical S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rafting with Rednecks (aka "Test") S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tears S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Uckfay Ushbay S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Nate Adams
Page Views: 402 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nate Adams on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Super fun!

[EDIT:] Tears climbs an excellent panel of smooth, clean gray limestone. The line begins with a crimpy crux getting off the ground. The line moves left to a great rest below an obvious detached flake. Move up to the flake, then traverse up & right to stem up the unfortunately positioned dihedral. Though obviously contrived, its possible to follow a line of holds left of the bolt line through this section to keep the climbing more aesthetic. Either way, arrive at a juggy, horizontal break. A few more fun moves lead to the chains.

Location

There is a climber's trail just below Drill for the Thrill. This will branch right to the shady "North Wall". Tears is the third route.

See the
The Prow topo. for location.

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

David Rasmussen
  5.11
David Rasmussen  
  5.11
This route is OK. The bolts are kind of weirdly placed. They are not in line with the natural line (you may be looking at a 5+ foot fall when level with a bolt). That said, it is one of the better lines on the north face (at least that I have been on). Oct 8, 2008
RyanO
sunshine
 
RyanO   sunshine
 
Agreed, this is weird route (but good). I think the bolts are placed so that one could take the hard 11 line on left, (two bolts from the top) or the 9ish line on the right. I can definitely see how this could induce tears if preceded by blood and sweat ;) Jun 21, 2010
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
 
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
 
I wish the bolts went four feet to the left of the current line and we call it 5.12 or four feet to the right so climbers understand [to] to in the corner system. Fun and solid movements until you are forced to go right in what seems to be a cop out. However if you are reading this description before you climb, at least you get a heads up. Sep 6, 2015
Will Butler
Boulder, CO
Will Butler   Boulder, CO
Going left at the headwall section seemed to be the natural line. Theses bolts could stand to be moved a couple feet left. Also, the way the second bolt was placed seemed unnecessary high. In short, poor bolting, great climbing. Jul 23, 2017
This great route suffers from "Lime Disease" - AKA - bad bolting. Why doesn't the first ascent party fix it? It would be a classic. The bolting brings me to Tears. Jul 6, 2018

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