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Double Helix (aka Rikert's Corner)

5.9, Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 118 votes
FA: Dave Rikert, mid-1970s?
Massachusetts > Western MA > Rose Ledge > 02 - Main Face

Description

This is a crack to the right of Leave it to Beaver that starts in a shallow, right-facing dihedral that turns into a narrow, flared chimney about halfway up or so.

Protection

TR, or a trad rack including small cams.

Per Glen Luckjiff: there are two bolts at the lip.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

10/31/20, a gorgeous day. Double Helix is really a challenge when it's wet.
[Hide Photo] 10/31/20, a gorgeous day. Double Helix is really a challenge when it's wet.
Double Helix.
[Hide Photo] Double Helix.
Double Helix (aka Rikert's Corner) is the line on the left. Stetson Stumble (5.8) is the line on the right.
[Hide Photo] Double Helix (aka Rikert's Corner) is the line on the left. Stetson Stumble (5.8) is the line on the right.
Before the crux.
[Hide Photo] Before the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

GoBotRocker
Spfld, Ma
[Hide Comment] Double Helix is a short, sweet, and very protectable climb. Feb 17, 2007
Brett Maguire
Worcester, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Just giving this little gem of a climb some more love. It's a tremendously enjoyable 5.9, with varied and interesting moves from start to finish. Protection couldn't be better. This would make a superb first 5.9 lead. Sep 20, 2013
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow
Fort Collins, CO / Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Solid and fun 5.9 with great gear. Lead it! Nov 10, 2015
Glen Luckjiff
New York, NY
[Hide Comment] Two bolts at the lip. Aug 14, 2017
Katie McKinstry
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] I would rate this harder than a 5.9. SUPER fun start, it gets difficult near the top. Feb 27, 2018
SP Boston
Watertown, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Did this today, after five years away from Rose Ledges -- distracted by more distant destinations like Rainier, Grand Teton, Smith Rock. A real gem of a climb with face and stem and layback moves. The grade continually rises until 5.9+ ending. It works your brain and your body. Apr 10, 2021
Tania Harsono
Boston, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome lead. I actually found the crux to be right at the cross-over point - where the feet ran out, but maybe it was also bc for my small hands the finger crack in the left-facing corner felt rattly? The rest of the top half was strenuous but fine if you can combine chimney + stemming techniques. Plenty of pro options. Would rate 4 stars if it were 100’ instead of 40’, but then again, it might be 5.10 if it went on for much longer :) Sep 3, 2022
Dan Lent
 
[Hide Comment] Took a lead fall on this!!!! #4 stopper. Jan 24, 2023