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Routes in (04) The Balcony

Betty's Friend S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betty's Redemption S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow's Feet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ego Terrorists S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purchase Agreement S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ten 'Til Eight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Scott Halliday
Page Views: 109 total · 1/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Mentmore Adopt-a-Crag Cleanup, August 18/19, 2018 Details

Description

This climb goes up the right side of the arete that has Ego Terrorists on the left side of it. Climb suspect rock to the more solid rock above.

Location

All the way at the end of the Wall of Dreams wall before the large boulder.

Protection

Bolts to bolt anchors.

Photos

Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
The 5.9 grade on this climb is a little funny, sort of a compromise. As the name suggests, this climb is a little bit of 5.10 to a lot of 5.8. If 5.9 is at your limit, the bottom of this route is going to be a shock. So, I would say that if you climb this one starting from the bottom, up the overhang, it's roughly 5.10a. If you start on the Balcony and traverse in from the right, skipping the first bolt of the climb, it's about 5.8. Nov 5, 2007
Dave Janecek  
 
I think the crux is the bottom of the route with a possibility of bypassing this as mentioned in the previous comment. The route does kind of have two characters to it but the whole thing is fun. Really easy to reach anchors from the top. Excellent morning shade for summer climbing too. Jun 25, 2018

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