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Routes in (04) The Balcony

Betty's Friend S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betty's Redemption S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow's Feet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ego Terrorists S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purchase Agreement S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ten 'Til Eight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Scott Halliday
Page Views: 66 total, 0/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This climb goes up the right side of the arete that has Ego Terrorists on the left side of it. Climb suspect rock to the more solid rock above.

Location

All the way at the end of the Wall of Dreams wall before the large boulder.

Protection

Bolts to bolt anchors.

Photos

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Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
The 5.9 grade on this climb is a little funny, sort of a compromise. As the name suggests, this climb is a little bit of 5.10 to a lot of 5.8. If 5.9 is at your limit, the bottom of this route is going to be a shock. So, I would say that if you climb this one starting from the bottom, up the overhang, it's roughly 5.10a. If you start on the Balcony and traverse in from the right, skipping the first bolt of the climb, it's about 5.8. Nov 5, 2007