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Routes in (03) Wall of Dreams

Chai Tea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crescent Moon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Flakes Don't Fail Me Now S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Crack T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lost Boys T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
On the Edge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sink or Swim S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stolen Dreams S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Time Bandits S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Turquoise Classic Thunder T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: Scott Halliday
Page Views: 71 total, 0/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Continuing to the right of the arete with On the Edge is a nice looking climb up the face. The bolts were original set by a Gallup local who was unable to complete the route, so Scott had to finish it off for him! Hence, the name, Stolen Dreams. Though the route setter puts this route at .11a, the crux move, a large lunge, I believe goes at .11b or c.

Protection

Five bolts to bolt anchors.

Photos

Scott Halliday
Gallup, NM
Scott Halliday   Gallup, NM
Yes, this climb is a good one. It is funny to reflect on the past, Jim had put in the toprop anchors and worked the route a little and realized it might be out of reach for the time being. I then stole it and made it my own. He was working on some other routes at the time so he didn't mind.

The climb has a couple of really good spots in it, a long wingspan reach and a long lunge move right after, not bad if you set up for it. I don't think I had my gut when I climbed that one. Dec 27, 2008