Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches,
Avg: 4 from 152
FA: Royal Robbins & Dave Rearick June 1959, FFA: John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Mike Graham & Bill Antel 1973
> Tahquitz & Suic…
> Tahquitz Rock
> (f) W Face Bulg…
> Upper Bulge Routes
The ultimate SoCal classic which takes pride of place on Tahquitz Rock - winding its way up the center of the West Face Bulge.
P1) The Bat Crack, 5.11a. From the ledge drop down and into the crack, initially a lieback then finesse requirements begin to kick-in culminating with a tough move past a bolt - don't relax though, an energetic mantle is required to gain the belay ledge up to the left and bolts. This pitch can also be climbed direct from lower down.
P2) 5.11a. Thin and steep leftwards to the flake (well protected if using one of the anchor bolts). Now up the flake which proves to be moderate, but in an exposed and wondrous position. Past a flake (The Bologna Slicer) go down left to a ledge (The Batwalk) and more bolts.
P3) 5.11a. Back to the flake system and, as it heads left step over it to the right and up to a bolt, pass this on the right up to a thin diagonal crack (small TCU) follow this to a left facing corner which leads to a pin and nut belay higher up.
P4) 5.8. Ahhh, I can still feel the grin forcing its way onto my face as I head up the last pitch, a thin flake, over the arch roof to find myself standing, practically in disbelief, at the top of The Vampire with my mate Fred.
Use From Bad Traverse which begins at The Trough and heads left past a tree over to Super Pooper and The Step, but before reaching these routes head up (kinda tricky) to ledge with a 2 bolt anchor which lies to the left of The Bat Crack.
Standard rack including a few quickdraws.
Reaching for the mantle holds on The Vampire.
Nice form on the Bat Crack. 6-29-13
Snake cruzing P2
The classic shot of the second pitch of The Vampire. Photo by Catherine Conner.
Bill Dabbert post P2 crux
Mike and Adam on the Vampire. Photo taken from Super Pooper
Snake on P2 Crux
Bat Crack on The Vampire (5.11a), Tahquitz Rock
ANGELINA KALIANDA SENDS
The Vampire from the start of The Trough. You can see shadows of flakes which make up The Vampire leading up from the Bat Crack.
Lori Williams making it across the traverse to the bomber hold on P2