Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Norman Clyde - June 1928
Page Views: 14,654 total · 92/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Mar 9, 2006
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


A nice alpine route which is almost out of character for the High Sierra. Save time wherever possible. Also get an alpine start.

From Sam Mack Meadow climb the lefthand gully at the back of the meadow, bear right under the Palisade Glacier moraine, through another shallow gully just to its right (Thunderbolt Peak framed in the notch) and so gradually gain the crest of the moraine. Follow it until it peters out (wonderful views of North Pal) then head straight up to the start of the couloir. About 1 hour from Sam Mack Meadow.

Part 1 The Couloir

In early season it's soft or hard snow by late season it's blue ice.

The first obstacle is crossing the bergschrund, which can be easy in early season and seriously hard in late season. Once established above the couloir suck it up and start climbing. Keep to the right, sometimes a break can be taken in a moat which may be there, there are slings also, for late season ascents. Keep going until reaching a tongue of rock dividing the couloir, skirt left around this and head up into The Notch.

Part 2 The Open Chimney 5.6

To the right lies a steep step which is negotiated using a groove which turns into a chimney in 2 pitches. Towards the top of the 2nd pitch bear right, to exit The Notch just by the summit snowfield.

Part 3 The Ridge

Best soloed or simul-climbed. Cross rocks above the summit snowfield, then, before the First Pinnacle, cross over onto the south side of the ridge and scramble along to eventually reach a well-earned summit.


Descend the route.


Part 1 ice-axe, crampons. Part 2 small alpine rack. Slings if simul-climbing the ridge.
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.6 WI2 M1 Mod. Snow
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.6 WI2 M1 Mod. Snow
As a variation - when reaching the bottom of the tongue of rock it's possible to climb up the rib formed by this tongue to the U-Notch itself. I did this once when I was soloing the route, had some rock shoes with me, cached my mountain boots at the start of the rib, and wore the rock shoes all the way to the summit. Worked out okay. Apr 4, 2009
U-Notch is a fun backcountry ski or snowboard adventure. I remember an old copy of Rock and Ice featuring Tom Burt boarding the U and V notch. Inspired me to do the same back in late 90's. Highly recommended and the jump across the bergschrund can be awesome!! Aug 12, 2010
Sam Novey
Salt Lake City
Sam Novey   Salt Lake City
Climbed August 22nd 2013, fantastic route. Lots of nice, no snow, definitely two tools required. Opted for a fun sketchy M3/4 variation somewhere about the 5th pitch after crossing the schrund and a circuitous 5th class scramble to the summit from above the chimney (feels about 5.6 in boots). Set of nuts, handful of cams, a few screws, 70m rope, wish I had brought a V-thread tool. Ended up coming down at night and leaving a few pieces of gear, some anchors on climbers right of couloir are pretty poor, definitely inspect before using. Kinda epic, really sweet. Sep 11, 2013
norte tahoe
  5.4 WI2 M1 Mod. Snow PG13
Schwisow   norte tahoe
  5.4 WI2 M1 Mod. Snow PG13
im voting for easy 5th class in the chimney, in boots and gaiters. 2 sets of nuts only required and a few slings. CLASSIC!!! May 3, 2014
Jackson Compean
Los Osos
Jackson Compean   Los Osos
Quick question for anyone who has climbed this route: roughly how long is the chimney at the top? I keep seeing it listed as two short pitches. Is that two short pitches with a 50m? In other words, could I link the two with a 70m line or is it actually longer? Feb 20, 2017
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.6 WI2 M1 Mod. Snow
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.6 WI2 M1 Mod. Snow
I would think a 70m rope would be long enough to single pitch it. Feb 21, 2017
Mikhail Simkin
  5.4 WI2 M1 Mod. Snow
Mikhail Simkin  
  5.4 WI2 M1 Mod. Snow
Free soloed it July 1st. Here is the video:
youtube.com/watch?v=Mxyd8eg… Aug 9, 2017