Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Royal Robbins, David Lovejoy, Rusty Ballie
Page Views: 188 total · 1/month
Shared By: misterclimberman on Mar 9, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Great, classic, historic route. I believe a R rating is now applicable do to the spacing and unreliability of the pins on pitch one. Hard for 10b, but an amazing route. first 5.10 in Prescott. Pitch 2 is a splitter finger to hand to offwitdth with lots of holds, to final runout to the anchors. Starts in a groove off of a ledge on the left side of the cliff, below the obvious licheny crack up top.

Protection

small to large, nuts. a runner to tie off pin on pitch 1. a couple screamers could also add some courage. dont forget to have some huevos too!

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JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
The first pitch is sporty and protected with glued pins. This flaring, wide, slopey, groove is really no fun. However, the second pitch is one of the best on the wall as far as trad goes. Not to be missed. Dec 4, 2006
Luke W.
Prescott
  5.10 PG13
Luke W.   Prescott
  5.10 PG13
The first pitch has committing climbing over old pins. Not so sporty. Try the shallow crack just left of here to gain access to the second pitch if you're not feeling up to it. Feb 27, 2009
Chris M
Hailey, ID
  5.10 R
Chris M   Hailey, ID
  5.10 R
Historical Note: Lovejoy caught Royal Robbins on a lead fall on the 1st pitch of this climb on the FA. Also Prescott's first 5.10. Oct 20, 2009
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Sorry Luke, I didn't mean "sporty" as in sport climbing, instead as a vague description of the mettle needed for the pitch! Oct 5, 2010
Luke W.
Prescott
  5.10 PG13
Luke W.   Prescott
  5.10 PG13
I enjoy this first pitch. Interesting movement that is definitely "sporty". Oct 7, 2010
Rap chain added to top of second pitch by Prescott Climber's Coalition and ASCA. Oct 26, 2012