Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Royal Robbins, David Lovejoy, Rusty Ballie
Page Views: 259 total · 2/month
Shared By: misterclimberman on Mar 9, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Great, classic, historic route. I believe a R rating is now applicable do to the spacing and unreliability of the pins on pitch one. Hard for 10b, but an amazing route. first 5.10 in Prescott. Pitch 2 is a splitter finger to hand to offwitdth with lots of holds, to final runout to the anchors. Starts in a groove off of a ledge on the left side of the cliff, below the obvious licheny crack up top.

Protection

small to large, nuts. a runner to tie off pin on pitch 1. a couple screamers could also add some courage. dont forget to have some huevos too!

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JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
The first pitch is sporty and protected with glued pins. This flaring, wide, slopey, groove is really no fun. However, the second pitch is one of the best on the wall as far as trad goes. Not to be missed. Dec 4, 2006
Luke Wakefield
Prescott
  5.10 PG13
Luke Wakefield   Prescott
  5.10 PG13
The first pitch has committing climbing over old pins. Not so sporty. Try the shallow crack just left of here to gain access to the second pitch if you're not feeling up to it. Feb 27, 2009
Chris M
Hailey, ID
  5.10 R
Chris M   Hailey, ID
  5.10 R
Historical Note: Lovejoy caught Royal Robbins on a lead fall on the 1st pitch of this climb on the FA. Also Prescott's first 5.10. Oct 20, 2009
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Sorry Luke, I didn't mean "sporty" as in sport climbing, instead as a vague description of the mettle needed for the pitch! Oct 5, 2010
Luke Wakefield
Prescott
  5.10 PG13
Luke Wakefield   Prescott
  5.10 PG13
I enjoy this first pitch. Interesting movement that is definitely "sporty". Oct 7, 2010
Kevin Keith  
 
Rap chain added to top of second pitch by Prescott Climber's Coalition and ASCA. Oct 26, 2012
b garrett  
 
I agree that the first pitch deserves an R rating, and is the 10b pitch. The hard (unprotected) first move off the ground usually helps people decide if they really want to lead it! This pitch is worth doing at least one time for the really weird climbing, and the historic value. Pitch 2 is 9+ or 10a, and is one of the best of its grade at the Dells! Pitch 2 protects well enough with small to large cams (include a #4), and is almost as good as the Co-op Crack in my book. So good! As mentioned above, it is easy to climb the crack just to the left as a good alternative to the first pitch. This is the first pitch of Last Chance, and is 5.7. It is pretty straightforward to do the whole route in one pitch, and it can be top-roped with a 60 meter rope. Apr 24, 2019