PRINT: Rock Climb Purple Headed Warrior, Smith Rock

Purple Headed Warrior

5.7, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 273 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (e) Western Ship - Ri…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Purple Headed Warrior is the rightmost route on the river face. It climbs a bolted face separated from the other river wall routes by a small, broken gully. PHW is a very moderate warm up, or a nice intro lead. Pleasant pebble pinching moves on a fine example of Smith's welded tuff bring you to the anchor.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The detached slab hosting Purple Headed Warrior bulges mightily along the East side of Western Ship's River Face

Purple Headed Warrior

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada

Nothing special, but perhaps a good route for the aspiring leader. Jul 13, 2010

Kevin Williams

Nothing fantastic, a good easy climbing with really secure footing. Easy clipping the whole way through; although blots are a little more spaced out than their neighbors. Aug 15, 2013

Tom Hickmann
Bend, OR

Fun and easy climb. Great climb for new leaders. Jun 18, 2018

Ben Bilbrough
Portland, OR

crux off the deck Aug 6, 2018

Gary Clark
Bend, OR

Nice route, first moves are at least 5.9. Stick clip advised. Mar 5, 2019

Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca

5.7

Good route to put beginners on Sep 23, 2019

ckersch

5.9

Standard Smith rock "easy" slab. The crux is off the deck and it gets progressively easier as you climb. I wouldn't put someone that isn't a confident 5.9 climber on this as a lead, and even then I'd recommend a stick clip for beginners. Jun 18, 2020

Ting Xiao
Las Vegas, NV

I dunno guys, if I were a beginner outdoor leader / 5.7 climber I think this would make me poop my pants. Apr 11, 2022

Dan Bookless
Bend, OR

5.7 R

I agree with Ting (basically the entire climb is a no fall zone)

That being said it’s a great TR for new climbers Nov 11, 2022

hummerchine

Fully agree with Ting and Dan!

Fun climb but a terrible first lead! It needs 2 more bolts, as it is run out and dangerous. Mar 24, 2023