Avg: 2 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Baxter, Hardwick, Karlstrom|
|Page Views:||1,660 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Kole DeCou on Mar 8, 2006|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd|
Pitch 1) 5.9 150' A long pitch of steminess. After the roof go right to the tree and a 2 bolt belay. Somewhat loose and hard to protect.
Pitch 2) 5.9 50' A hand crack thru the limestone band leads to an overhanging offwidth/squeeze. It's easier than it looks (5.9). There may be a tunnel thru to avoid it, but I didn't find it. Belay at the base of the corner with 2 bolts.
Pitch 3) 5.9 100' The Corner! A beautiful pitch. Belay at the notch with 2 bolts.
Pitch 4) 5.10 150' The crux. Chimney up until you can pull onto a ledge with good holds. Easy walking brings you to the drilled angle (FA was done without it!). A tenuous step up allows you to clip it. This clip might be hard and scary if you're under 5'8" or so. 5.10 slab past the bolt, then some easy climbing and some gear. One more 5.9-ish bit with a bad fall potential makes this a serious pitch. 2 bolt belay.
P5: 5.6 70' Not 4th class like the book says, but not hard either. Go up and right to the top. 2 bolt belay.
Descent: There might be an easier way off now (via a new Bircham route), but this how we did it:
Rap 1: 70' Rap P5.
Rap 2: 150' Rap to the notch.
Rap 3: 170' Rap off the left side of the Pope's Dick (opposite side from where you climbed) to the limestone band. The anchors are hard to find on the left, on the limestone ledge.
Rap4: 150' to the ground.
GPS: 34,52.412'N 111,44.091'W