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Routes in The Moose's Butte

Moose's Butte Regular Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pope's Dick T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Skyline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Baxter, Hardwick, Karlstrom
Page Views: 1,027 total, 7/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Long, varied, insecure at the cruxes. The retro bolt makes it safe, but this is still a serious route. South facing, but the corner gets afternoon shade.

Pitch 1) 5.9 150' A long pitch of steminess. After the roof go right to the tree and a 2 bolt belay. Somewhat loose and hard to protect.

Pitch 2) 5.9 50' A hand crack thru the limestone band leads to an overhanging offwidth/squeeze. It's easier than it looks (5.9). There may be a tunnel thru to avoid it, but I didn't find it. Belay at the base of the corner with 2 bolts.

Pitch 3) 5.9 100' The Corner! A beautiful pitch. Belay at the notch with 2 bolts.

Pitch 4) 5.10 150' The crux. Chimney up until you can pull onto a ledge with good holds. Easy walking brings you to the drilled angle (FA was done without it!). A tenuous step up allows you to clip it. This clip might be hard and scary if you're under 5'8" or so. 5.10 slab past the bolt, then some easy climbing and some gear. One more 5.9-ish bit with a bad fall potential makes this a serious pitch. 2 bolt belay.

P5: 5.6 70' Not 4th class like the book says, but not hard either. Go up and right to the top. 2 bolt belay.

Descent: There might be an easier way off now (via a new Bircham route), but this how we did it:

Rap 1: 70' Rap P5.
Rap 2: 150' Rap to the notch.
Rap 3: 170' Rap off the left side of the Pope's Dick (opposite side from where you climbed) to the limestone band. The anchors are hard to find on the left, on the limestone ledge.
Rap4: 150' to the ground.

Location

Park at the Queen Victoria Parking. Cross the stream bed, and turn left on the hiking trail. After a few hundred yards exit the main trail at a small wash coming in from the right. Follow this until an indistinct climber's trail appears on the right near the top of the hill. Follow the trail across the flat hill top towards the base of the Moose's Butte. The trail skirts left along the cliff that forms the base of the Moose's Butte and crosses a couple of washes. From the notch between Queen Vic and the Moose's Butte go right and follow the slick rock bench around until you can see the route on the right side of the Pope's Dick. Keep going a ways toward the Teapot until it is possible to gain the next level and double back to the base of the route.
GPS: 34,52.412'N 111,44.091'W

Protection

nuts, 2 each to #4, 1 #6 Camalot (new sizes)

Photos

Ryan Z
  5.10- R
Ryan Z  
  5.10- R
Bold F/A. Nice work on P4, without the drilled angle?! that must have been very exciting. I have no idea why there is a bolt 2 feet below a massive tree on top of P1. It's a waste of metal. P4 was a little spicy but we are talking about 5.8 and under climbing past the drilled angle. We rappelled Skyline, couldn't find any anchors atop P5. I am giving this route an R rating for the first pitch. Loose rock coupled with poor pro = you dont want to fall, or you're going to have a bad time. P1 is probably 5.9- Mar 8, 2014
Wow, rap stations on the thing ?
Rap bolts next to the big tree on the first pitch ?
Ah, I see now that the rap station is not down the original route.
Good idea. We stuck a rope on the right side on one of our trips up it.

Why not add more bolts to the crux pitch ?
I meant that seriously, not sarcastically.
One up high where the dicey slab fall would be very serious ?

First two ascents went without the drilled baby
(2nd moi et Jim Haisley). That was some serious stuff.
On the third, Larry Coats drilled the bolt with the permission
and I recall urging by Scott from the FA party.

Even with that baby angle, isn't it still an X if you come off up higher and get intimately acquainted with the dick ?

FWIW:
When I did the second, I went a very different way than the one Scott and Larry did (and described above).

I had traversed way out left then up and back right, as opposed to going straight up where the baby now is. The FA way, without the baby, just means you'll fall 30 or so ft down onto the belay in the notch... and need to be scraped up...

Way out left, I was probably doing some 5.8/5.9 slab moves about 80 feet out, looking at a very nasty slam into the dick corner. not recommended going that way even thought the moves are easier.


Ain't Sedona sandstone lovely...

Great to know that this climb still maintains it's spicey nature on that last pitch even with the baby angle.

FWIW, my recollection is of only doing 2 pitches to the notch.
One to the tree then the hand, OW, quasi squeeze to the notch.
However, I would NOT trust my recollections and would plan on 3-4 pitches to the notch. Apr 8, 2008
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
 
I'd give the 3rd pitch 9+. While there you might as well do the Pope's Dick (5.11) to the top of the spire. Thanks Seth for the updated anchors, the rap to the west pulls smoothly, but watch out for loose rock. Mar 8, 2008
Seth Dyer  
 
When we updated the anchors, we added the new descent route which is correctly described above. Dec 14, 2006
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Ahh Mooses Butte. A Great taste of the old school even with newer bomber belays and new rap stations. Did the thing a couple of time because as we were rapping off the final little limestone tower all three of us forgot to grab the rack. But hey, it was kind of dark. Aug 19, 2006