Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Baxter, Hardwick, Karlstrom
Page Views: 1,254 total · 8/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Long, varied, insecure at the cruxes. The retro bolt makes it safe, but this is still a serious route. South facing, but the corner gets afternoon shade.

Pitch 1) 5.9 150' A long pitch of steminess. After the roof go right to the tree and a 2 bolt belay. Somewhat loose and hard to protect.

Pitch 2) 5.9 50' A hand crack thru the limestone band leads to an overhanging offwidth/squeeze. It's easier than it looks (5.9). There may be a tunnel thru to avoid it, but I didn't find it. Belay at the base of the corner with 2 bolts.

Pitch 3) 5.9 100' The Corner! A beautiful pitch. Belay at the notch with 2 bolts.

Pitch 4) 5.10 150' The crux. Chimney up until you can pull onto a ledge with good holds. Easy walking brings you to the drilled angle (FA was done without it!). A tenuous step up allows you to clip it. This clip might be hard and scary if you're under 5'8" or so. 5.10 slab past the bolt, then some easy climbing and some gear. One more 5.9-ish bit with a bad fall potential makes this a serious pitch. 2 bolt belay.

P5: 5.6 70' Not 4th class like the book says, but not hard either. Go up and right to the top. 2 bolt belay.

Descent: There might be an easier way off now (via a new Bircham route), but this how we did it:

Rap 1: 70' Rap P5.
Rap 2: 150' Rap to the notch.
Rap 3: 170' Rap off the left side of the Pope's Dick (opposite side from where you climbed) to the limestone band. The anchors are hard to find on the left, on the limestone ledge.
Rap4: 150' to the ground.

Location

Park at the Queen Victoria Parking. Cross the stream bed, and turn left on the hiking trail. After a few hundred yards exit the main trail at a small wash coming in from the right. Follow this until an indistinct climber's trail appears on the right near the top of the hill. Follow the trail across the flat hill top towards the base of the Moose's Butte. The trail skirts left along the cliff that forms the base of the Moose's Butte and crosses a couple of washes. From the notch between Queen Vic and the Moose's Butte go right and follow the slick rock bench around until you can see the route on the right side of the Pope's Dick. Keep going a ways toward the Teapot until it is possible to gain the next level and double back to the base of the route.
GPS: 34,52.412'N 111,44.091'W

Protection

nuts, 2 each to #4, 1 #6 Camalot (new sizes)

Photos