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T. Rex

5.10-, Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.6 from 20 votes
FA: J. Ingels, M. Peterson, RJ Gauer
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > W Sedona > Coffeepot Rock… > T-Rex

Description

Not the best rock, but a perfect flat little summit and some wild face climbing make this a classic. Pitch 1 gets all day shade, Pitch 2 gets all day sun.

Pitch 1) 40' 5.9 From the north-west side, go up a hand crack to a big ledge below the limestone band. Clamber right over some loose blocks and build a belay on the south face.
--or--
Pitch 1 variation) 40' 5.10 The the good looking corner on the west face. Probably requires big gear.

Pitch 2) 60' Go up the right-hand corner in the limestone band, then past 2 drilled angles to the summit. Super fun. A little looseness, but not too bad.

Descent: Single rope rap off the back. The anchor has recently been renovated with new bolts.

Location

Park at Chimney Rock Parking (end of Andante road). Follow the trail east toward T. Rex and Botany 500. After 0.25 miles go left on a small trail. When this trail starts going the wrong way follow drainages up to T. Rex. Shouldn't involve much bushwhacking if done right.
GPS: 34,52.883'N 111,48.300'W

Protection

Nuts, 2 each to #3 Camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Gunning for the summit of T Rex. (Photo: Joey Taylor, before the drone ban)
[Hide Photo] Gunning for the summit of T Rex. (Photo: Joey Taylor, before the drone ban)
Chris Astraus heading up the 2nd pitch of T-Rex
[Hide Photo] Chris Astraus heading up the 2nd pitch of T-Rex
T-Rex beta
[Hide Photo] T-Rex beta
T-Rex as seen from the west. route starts on north, finishes on west face
[Hide Photo] T-Rex as seen from the west. route starts on north, finishes on west face
Rap off the back side of his head!
[Hide Photo] Rap off the back side of his head!
Doug Biber follows the face moves at the end of the second pitch (delighted to have a top rope!).
[Hide Photo] Doug Biber follows the face moves at the end of the second pitch (delighted to have a top rope!).
Doug rappels while Heather waits her turn to descend from T Rex.
[Hide Photo] Doug rappels while Heather waits her turn to descend from T Rex.
Heather Hayes leading the wild face climbing at the end of the second pitch (onto the head of the dino).
[Hide Photo] Heather Hayes leading the wild face climbing at the end of the second pitch (onto the head of the dino).
Doug Biber at the wide crack above the roof on the first pitch (yes, it is too wide to hand jam!).
[Hide Photo] Doug Biber at the wide crack above the roof on the first pitch (yes, it is too wide to hand jam!).
The first pitch of T Rex- a clean dihedral with a wide roof to finish. (The 5.10 variation shown in the topo).
[Hide Photo] The first pitch of T Rex- a clean dihedral with a wide roof to finish. (The 5.10 variation shown in the topo).
T. Rex Topo
[Hide Photo] T. Rex Topo
T. Rex
[Hide Photo] T. Rex

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] There is another start that begins in the notch between T-Rex and Sipapu. I climbed it on accident and was pleasantly surprised. It was basically a hand crack through a bulge, some blocky choss, then a tapered hands to fingers crack (5.10 PG13). Belay on a ledge then traverse right and join the standard 2nd pitch. The standard last pitch felt like 5.9+ at most by Sedona standards. May 25, 2013
[Hide Comment] Hey climbed this route Tuesday Dec 9, wife got a migraine and could not follow me up it. I rapped down and got the gear, but my rope got stuck. Went back this morning to get it and it is gone. Whoever snagged it, please return it to Flagstaff Climbing. I can pick it up there. Dec 11, 2014
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Good little route, super cool summit. Does not deserve the R rating it gets in the Bloom/Wolfe guide. Good pro all the way on both pitches and spicy moves above the old drilled angles that protect the final slabby face moves.

One 60m gets you down. Oct 24, 2016
Derek Field
California
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] P1: Starting at precisely the saddle, we climbed the obvious left-facing corner with hand crack. Mostly solid rock.
P2: Very exciting, though not really R-rated. Found ample placements in the .3 to .75 range on the lower part of this pitch. Still, pulling that final crux move on sandy rock with feet above two ancient pitons...

The summit is Rextacular! One of the coolest in Sedona for sure. Oct 24, 2016