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Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.6 from 20
FA: J. Ingels, M. Peterson, RJ Gauer
> Northern Arizona
> Sedona Area
> W Sedona
> Coffeepot Rock…
Not the best rock, but a perfect flat little summit and some wild face climbing make this a classic. Pitch 1 gets all day shade, Pitch 2 gets all day sun.
Pitch 1) 40' 5.9 From the north-west side, go up a hand crack to a big ledge below the limestone band. Clamber right over some loose blocks and build a belay on the south face. --or-- Pitch 1 variation) 40' 5.10 The the good looking corner on the west face. Probably requires big gear.
Pitch 2) 60' Go up the right-hand corner in the limestone band, then past 2 drilled angles to the summit. Super fun. A little looseness, but not too bad.
Descent: Single rope rap off the back. The anchor has recently been renovated with new bolts.
Park at Chimney Rock Parking (end of Andante road). Follow the trail east toward T. Rex and Botany 500. After 0.25 miles go left on a small trail. When this trail starts going the wrong way follow drainages up to T. Rex. Shouldn't involve much bushwhacking if done right. GPS: 34,52.883'N 111,48.300'W