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T. Rex
5.9,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.7 from 31
votes
FA: J. Ingels, M. Peterson, RJ Gauer
Arizona
> Northern Arizona
> Sedona Area
> W Sedona
> Coffeepot Rock…
> T-Rex
Description
Not the best rock, but a perfect flat little summit and some wild face climbing make this a classic. Pitch 1 gets all day shade, Pitch 2 gets all day sun.
Pitch 1) 40' 5.9 From the north-west side, go up a hand crack to a big ledge below the limestone band. Clamber right over some loose blocks and build a belay on the south face.
--or--
Pitch 1 variation) 40' 5.10 The the good looking corner on the west face. Probably requires big gear.
Pitch 2) 60' Go up the right-hand corner in the limestone band, then past 2 drilled angles to the summit. Super fun. A little looseness, but not too bad.
Descent: Single rope rap off the back. The anchor has recently been renovated with new bolts.
Location
Park at Chimney Rock Parking (end of Andante road). Follow the trail east toward T. Rex and Botany 500. After 0.25 miles go left on a small trail. When this trail starts going the wrong way follow drainages up to T. Rex. Shouldn't involve much bushwhacking if done right.
GPS: 34,52.883'N 111,48.300'W
Protection
Nuts, 2 each to #3 Camalot.
![Doug rappels while Heather waits her turn to descend from T Rex.]()
[Hide Photo] Doug rappels while Heather waits her turn to descend from T Rex.
![Heather Hayes leading the wild face climbing at the end of the second pitch (onto the head of the dino).]()
[Hide Photo] Heather Hayes leading the wild face climbing at the end of the second pitch (onto the head of the dino).
![The first pitch of T Rex- a clean dihedral with a wide roof to finish. (The 5.10 variation shown in the topo).]()
[Hide Photo] The first pitch of T Rex- a clean dihedral with a wide roof to finish. (The 5.10 variation shown in the topo).
![Doug Biber follows the face moves at the end of the second pitch (delighted to have a top rope!).]()
[Hide Photo] Doug Biber follows the face moves at the end of the second pitch (delighted to have a top rope!).
![Chris Astraus heading up the 2nd pitch of T-Rex]()
[Hide Photo] Chris Astraus heading up the 2nd pitch of T-Rex
![Rap off the back side of his head!]()
[Hide Photo] Rap off the back side of his head!
![T-Rex as seen from the west. route starts on north, finishes on west face]()
[Hide Photo] T-Rex as seen from the west. route starts on north, finishes on west face
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Fort Bragg, CA
One 60m gets you down. Oct 24, 2016
Nevada
P2: Very exciting, though not really R-rated. Found ample placements in the .3 to .75 range on the lower part of this pitch. Still, pulling that final crux move on sandy rock with feet above two ancient pitons...
The summit is Rextacular! One of the coolest in Sedona for sure. Oct 24, 2016
Flagstaff
P2- some nut placements / plenty of cam placements as well. The 2 Pitons seemed bomber , and there are plenty of good holds . Jan 4, 2021
Yosemite NP (Tuolumne)
Phoenix, AZ
Some of the finest Sedona choss I've encountered. P1 is fun, over too soon. 5.8+. P2 is chosstacular, pins seemed good enough I guess. Summit is one of the best in Sedona.
Someone please take a 18-24 inch length of chain up there for the other bolt, I left a quick link on the end of the cord I left that can be reused for the chain. The bolt is good enough until someone gets up there to rebolt it. Oct 28, 2022
South Lake Tahoe
Otherwise the climb is super fun and a cool summit. Crux for me was the last moves to the summit above the last piton. Has a slight sketch factor imo because it’s only pitons and not much gear up there. Would be far more inspiring with a few real bolts / glue-ins but still worth climbing.
Enjoyed a cool sunset up there and rapped in the dark. Rap goes with one 70m. Can’t say for sure if a 60m would work but probably. Nov 18, 2023