PRINT: Rock Climb Revelations, Smith Rock

Revelations

5.9, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 408 votes
FA: Tim Carpenter, John Tyreman 1975
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (l) Christian B… > Christian Brothers -…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Revelations was the first fully bolted sport route at Smith, which makes it historic. Unfortunately age isn't everything, and this climb is like old creaky Uncle Sid. He shows up at the family reunions, he's a nice guy, you try to like him...but he's just a little bit too weird in the end.

Revelations climbs the bolted arete left of Barbecue the Pope. Pinch and tiptoe your way up the pebbley face, using the arete as you go. I found this climb to be a little insecure with some odd sequences between bolts-- and there's a lot of between bolts on this one. There's probably no more run out than on most other Smith routes, but these pebbley slabs do something to my head.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Finding feet on Revelations. June 2021

Revelations

Dr. J, peaking, on Revelations

Mycroft Smith post (mental) crux on this great route. His waist is at the first bolt.

Ella Rose being bold above her last bolt

Colins first 5.9 onsight

Kathryn following Revelations

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada

I didn't mind this route. I think it must have had a lot of loose rock in the beginning, but now is not bad. Getting to the first bolt may be intimidating for some new leaders. Jul 11, 2010

CTYankee Brown
Prospect, CT

The first step is interesting for short, inflexible people. The start is intimidating for old leaders, too. Once the first bolt is clipped, it is fun. Aug 4, 2011

Eric Fjellanger

I don't understand why the first bolt is so high off the ground, it seems about 25' up, a fall from there would be disastrous. Much worse than Barbecue the Pope. May 8, 2012

C h a d

"I don't understand why the first bolt is so high off the ground, it seems about 25' up, a fall from there would be disastrous."

As stated in the route description above, there's a place for a nut before the first bolt.

Chad May 8, 2012

Zak Krenzer
Auburn, WA

5.9

My stick clip didn't reach the first bolt. A #8 BD nut protects the leader pretty well. Place about half way between the deck and first big left hand jug.

One of my favorite routes at smith! May 6, 2013

Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon

Yep, bring your nuts for this one. The first bolt is scary for sure. I'm comfortable onsighting 10's on sport and trad at Smith but didn't enjoy the journey to the first bolt. Once it's clipped you'll enjoy the run to the anchors. Jul 25, 2013

Ed kelly

It's true that the first bolt is scary high, broken ankles would probably be the best case scenario. The climbing to it is only about 5.7 though. A nut or small cam is recommended. I placed a bomber #2 mastercam at about 15 feet for peace of mind. Fun climb with sporting but reasonable runouts the rest of the way up. Sep 11, 2013

Todd DiAsio

Fun climb. 1st bolt is extremely high - even with most standard length stick clips. Best to place gear for protection. May 27, 2017

Steven Higdon
Rhododendron, OR

Great mental warmup for those runout nubbin climbs. I feel like the run out first bolt is the easiest climbing on the route. If you look hard enough, there will always be a few hands and feet to ease your progress. Oct 16, 2017

Rob L

5.9

Good warmup route. I placed a .2 X4 about 7 or 10 feet below the first bolt. There's one or two good spots to place a nut as well. Would be a heady warmup without that first piece in! Nov 12, 2017

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

Two bolts were added to this today eliminating the runout start. No more gear required. Feb 25, 2020

C h a d

Max, why bolt the start? It takes gear. Did one of the first ascensionists give the green light for that?

Chad Jun 23, 2020