Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,420 total · 21/month
Shared By: ScottH on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

217 Opinions

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Caffeine Free is the leftmost of the bolted routes on the river face of the West ship, following a thin seam and some pockets to an anchor below Solar. Caffeine Free can be easily recognized because there are two bolts at the first stance. One is a bad spinner.

Climb past the first bolts connceting pockets, huecos, and edges. You will be moving back and forth between the seam and features to the side as you ascend. Launch into the crux off an undercling in a giant hueco and work your way up and back right follow small edges to a good rest. Pay attention to your feet. After these moves, the difficulty eases, but remains interesting 5.10 to the anchor. There are some loose blocks just below the anchor-- don't knock them down on your belayer.


Bolts. The first bolt may look high and the climbing tricky, but the moves to get there are quite reasonable-- look for a subtle finger pocket that is easy to miss.


Bend, Or.
BSwett   Bend, Or.
Did the 11a finish pitch today. Yes it's a little dirty, and some of the holds are a bit suspicious, but totally worth it.
I've never seen anyone on this thing. If it gets some more traffic, and the loose sandy stuff cleans up, it's gonna end up being a three star climb. Pretty sure a 60m rope will get you to the top from the ground (fun!). We lowered with single rope, 2 raps. Oct 18, 2012
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
This climb is DEF not .10c. It was listed as .10a in the original Smith Book, but got upgraded to .10b in the new Smith Book. This was a mistake. Caffeine Free is 5.10a. Dec 19, 2012
another Chad
another Chad  
Feels like a solid 5.10b to me. Caffeine Free is my favorite line of the base routes on this buttress.

Chad Dec 23, 2013
Burk S.
Lebanon, Oregon
Burk S.   Lebanon, Oregon
The finish is definitely worth it. It has more character than the usual routes on the morning glory that typically attract the crowds. It will only improve with time as it gets cleaned up - however, it is not as bad as some of the rock on the back side. Jan 3, 2014
Justin Sarvela
Duluth, Minnesota
Justin Sarvela   Duluth, Minnesota
Watch out for the huge jug around the third bolt (already forgot exactly where, but you can't miss it)! Thought I was going to pull it off going up to the next hold. To be safe, use the lower left side of it, it doesn't move nor drop tiny bits of pebbles when you touch it. Mar 23, 2014
That hold that Justin mentioned around the third bolt broke off yesterday (March 23). It is still a very positive hold, besides being a little sandy for now. Luckily no one was injured. Mar 24, 2014
Macauley Berg
Estacada, OR
Macauley Berg   Estacada, OR
Yeah i was with justin, luckily he gave me the heads up on it otherwise i probably wouldve been the one to tear it off ;) Mar 29, 2014
jason ca  
felt like 10a/b. super fun route that deserves more credit. upper finish was in no way 11a as published in newest smith book. maybe 10c? caffeine finish is dirty but will only get better over time. Apr 16, 2014
Felt around .10a to me. Great feet, and good stances to clip. Mar 23, 2015
Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
I was told beforehand this was to be a measly 5.9. When my feet popped off those tiny nubbins I suspected something was amiss. Sandbaggers. Dec 13, 2015
Mitch: They might have honestly miscounted routes (There's a newish line right of Phone Call that isn't in the 2008 guide) and thought Caffeine was Phone Call From Satan, which is a 5.9.

But anyway... a sandbag? At Smith Rock? Surely you jest! :) Dec 14, 2015
Some loose blocks ---> fewer loose blocks. Jun 3, 2018
Alex Laub
Corvallis, OR
Alex Laub   Corvallis, OR
Two small cruxes with the newly broken hold a bolt and a half above the first crux. Or grab the new edge, maybe clean the route a little more. Jun 13, 2018
Very solid and fun 10b. Didn't have any issue with loose blocks like others are saying so it is possible they have been cleaned. A word of warning though: the top two permadraws are getting very warn through as of 11/20 from people lowering off them. The left one looked particularly bad so I backed it up with a locker and left it for others. Great climb! Nov 21, 2018